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Changing a Softails oil.

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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 06:11 PM
  #1  
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Default Changing a Softails oil.

So I just pull the bottom drain plug, rock the bike, reinstall, add two and a half quarts? How warm or cold should the motor be?

When taking off the oil filter is there a trick to not getting oil everywhere?

Do I torque or just snug tight the bolts?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 06:28 PM
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Default Change fluid

I run it 10 min or so...For the oil filter I get a 2 liter bottle and cut it in the shape of a shovel of sorts (need to be able to get filter wrench in there) and leave lid on bottle. This will catch some of the oil and I let the filter slide into it.
Put some rags underneath cause some oil always sneaks thru.
I just snug the filter but if you check your manual it will give an exact torque number.

Originally Posted by Fatboy103
So I just pull the bottom drain plug, rock the bike, reinstall, add two and a half quarts? How warm or cold should the motor be?

When taking off the oil filter is there a trick to not getting oil everywhere?

Do I torque or just snug tight the bolts?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 06:31 PM
  #3  
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Owners manual. Instructions there in print and pictures I believe. It also tells how much to torque the drain bolt.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 06:35 PM
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Good site to look at. Talks about changing all holes.
http://www.dudeworld.com.au/HOWTO.ENGINE.HTML
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 06:36 PM
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I always change the gasket on the drain plug. They're very inexpensive. Some guys on here just inspect and leave the old one on, but I think I'd rather just be safe. If you buy your filters from Harley, they will probably just give one to you.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 06:37 PM
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At cold fill it about mid way on stick. When Hot it will be at or near top. You cannot get too much oil in a Softail motor. However if you actually put too much in tank, it would push out the stick. I just slide some card board and a rag under filter but they make a few tools. Just wipe up the mess and spray a little cleaner if oil runs down. The plugs are ms fittings with o-rings. Replace if it looks worn with correct English size. See attachment. O-ring goes up into taper and is what seals and the washer face is what enables you to torque it or like me give it a bump with my palm and it stays tight. My primary is a npt tapered thread pipe plug even though my manual says it is a ms fitting. I use teflon tape on it.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:14 AM.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 06:37 PM
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My advice would be to get the manual for the model and year of your bike.

That being said, I always change my oil when it's warm. My bike hold 3 quarts after draining. You can use V shaped cardboard...and lots od other sugestions on here to try and avoid some of the mess. Just do a search and good luck and ride safe.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 06:42 PM
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Then when you want to get all the old oil out, you will get a scavenger.

http://www.roguechopper.com/
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 07:11 PM
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Just to put this out there incase you don't know, oil drain is below the oil tank do not remove plugs out of the bottom of the engine block/case.
 

Last edited by LaidInk; Mar 25, 2013 at 07:22 PM. Reason: Signature
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by LaidInk
Just to put this out there incase you don't know, oil drain is below the oil tank do not remove plugs out of the bottom of the engine block/case.
I just saw this thread and noticed that up until the last post no one had mentioned this...

Your oil drain plug is NOT the one on the bottom of the crank case, it's on the frame on the brake-side of the bike below the oil tank.
 
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