Curious LED issue.
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Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Pei, Canada
Curious LED issue.
OK. Back a few weeks ago I swapped my rear lights with HD LED's. Tail light and signal lights. Read and was told I would not need a load equalizer with these lights.
Drove for two weeks with fast blinking turn signals. Installed a Kuyakyn load equalizer. With no change. Removed the equalizer.
Just a couple of days ago I was out a noticed my signal lights working normally out of the blue with no equalizer installed.
Decided today to swap out my front signal lights with again HD LED's. Still no equalizer. Went for a ride and noticed my right side lights Blink normally, but my left side blink fast???????
I do have a Badlands equalizer on order. Will this unit solve my issue or should I not need it? Anybody run into this issue before?
Drove for two weeks with fast blinking turn signals. Installed a Kuyakyn load equalizer. With no change. Removed the equalizer.
Just a couple of days ago I was out a noticed my signal lights working normally out of the blue with no equalizer installed.
Decided today to swap out my front signal lights with again HD LED's. Still no equalizer. Went for a ride and noticed my right side lights Blink normally, but my left side blink fast???????
I do have a Badlands equalizer on order. Will this unit solve my issue or should I not need it? Anybody run into this issue before?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 13,061
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From: Texas, USA
I have HD LED's all around on my Heritage: Headlamp, passing lamps, brake lamp and front/rear turn signals. All lights are working correctly without any load equalizer. Furthermore, when the rear turn signals are installed, they should automatically function as run-brake-turn lights without requiring the run-brake-turn module.
So, to answer your question, you should not require a load equalizer. I would check all the wiring first. Make sure the wires are seated properly and in the correct position in the connectors.
So, to answer your question, you should not require a load equalizer. I would check all the wiring first. Make sure the wires are seated properly and in the correct position in the connectors.
May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
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From: Rochester, NY
I have HD LED's all around on my Heritage: Headlamp, passing lamps, brake lamp and front/rear turn signals. All lights are working correctly without any load equalizer. Furthermore, when the rear turn signals are installed, they should automatically function as run-brake-turn lights without requiring the run-brake-turn module.
So, to answer your question, you should not require a load equalizer. I would check all the wiring first. Make sure the wires are seated properly and in the correct position in the connectors.
So, to answer your question, you should not require a load equalizer. I would check all the wiring first. Make sure the wires are seated properly and in the correct position in the connectors.
There are only two wires in the circuit, power and ground, so a LED or standard bulb has no idea whether its supposed to be on in run mode or get brighter for the brake.
Blinking is easy turn it on and its on, turn it off and its off.
But 12V is 12V, if there is voltage in the circuit, its on and it doesn't change brightness to distinguish between run or brake.
Using a module is needed to make the bulb or LED operate at different brightness levels by changing the input voltage levels.
And even that doesn't always work right with cheap LED's.
Some bike's, not all seem to be able to operate LED's without the equalizer and others don't.
My 'guess' is that the flasher unit in those bikes may one of the newer electronic types and not the older bi-metalic strip thermal types.
But there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to know which bikes will do it or not in advance.
For example, when I put LED's in the back of my bike they started out blinking fast.
Then one day for no apparent reason they just stopped and started to work normally.
I have no idea why, they just do.
But as a general rule, whenever you install LED's in the turn signals.
Its smarter to put in the load resistor, equalizer, to duplicate the original design load in the circuit.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 13,061
Likes: 12,988
From: Texas, USA
I don't think you understand how the rear turn signals are wired, or you wouldn't say something like that.
There are only two wires in the circuit, power and ground, so a LED or standard bulb has no idea whether its supposed to be on in run mode or get brighter for the brake.
Blinking is easy turn it on and its on, turn it off and its off.
But 12V is 12V, if there is voltage in the circuit, its on and it doesn't change brightness to distinguish between run or brake.
Using a module is needed to make the bulb or LED operate at different brightness levels by changing the input voltage levels.
And even that doesn't always work right with cheap LED's.
Some bike's, not all seem to be able to operate LED's without the equalizer and others don't.
My 'guess' is that the flasher unit in those bikes may one of the newer electronic types and not the older bi-metalic strip thermal types.
But there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to know which bikes will do it or not in advance.
For example, when I put LED's in the back of my bike they started out blinking fast.
Then one day for no apparent reason they just stopped and started to work normally.
I have no idea why, they just do.
But as a general rule, whenever you install LED's in the turn signals.
Its smarter to put in the load resistor, equalizer, to duplicate the original design load in the circuit.
There are only two wires in the circuit, power and ground, so a LED or standard bulb has no idea whether its supposed to be on in run mode or get brighter for the brake.
Blinking is easy turn it on and its on, turn it off and its off.
But 12V is 12V, if there is voltage in the circuit, its on and it doesn't change brightness to distinguish between run or brake.
Using a module is needed to make the bulb or LED operate at different brightness levels by changing the input voltage levels.
And even that doesn't always work right with cheap LED's.
Some bike's, not all seem to be able to operate LED's without the equalizer and others don't.
My 'guess' is that the flasher unit in those bikes may one of the newer electronic types and not the older bi-metalic strip thermal types.
But there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to know which bikes will do it or not in advance.
For example, when I put LED's in the back of my bike they started out blinking fast.
Then one day for no apparent reason they just stopped and started to work normally.
I have no idea why, they just do.
But as a general rule, whenever you install LED's in the turn signals.
Its smarter to put in the load resistor, equalizer, to duplicate the original design load in the circuit.
First of all, there are 3 wires to the LED turn signal. By wiring per the instructions, the LED turn signals function as run-brake-turn. The "module" you refer to allowing the light to operate at different brightness levels must be integrated into the LEDs.
http://www.harley-davidson.com/store/bar---shield-rear-led-turn-signals
The OP mentioned and it is specifically stated in the description of the turn signals that no load equalizer is required.
The OP also apparently had a similar occurrence that you did. Initially, even with a load equalizer, the turn signals were blinking fast. Then, for no apparent reason, without any load equalizer the turn signals functioned normally ???
Big Kahuna HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 322,622
Likes: 3,077
From: .....
I have LED run/turn/stop signals and was told I needed a load equalizer, to keep the dash light from blinking fast, like it's supposed to when there's a light out. I really didn't want to mess with it and asked Custom Dynamics if I REALLY needed the equalizer. They said no but my dash light would blink fast but not the LED lights. So I left it off.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 16
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From: Pei, Canada
I double checked my wiring and everything seems fine, however left side blinkers are still blinking fast and right side blink normally. I'll have to wait for the Badlands equalizer to get here and plug into see if that makes any difference. I just find it odd that one side is blinking differently than another. I assumed they would all blink fast if equalizer was needed.
My bike is a 2004 Heritage.
My bike is a 2004 Heritage.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 13
From: Sussex, South of England
I don't think you understand how the rear turn signals are wired, or you wouldn't say something like that.
There are only two wires in the circuit, power and ground, so a LED or standard bulb has no idea whether its supposed to be on in run mode or get brighter for the brake.
Blinking is easy turn it on and its on, turn it off and its off.
But 12V is 12V, if there is voltage in the circuit, its on and it doesn't change brightness to distinguish between run or brake.
Using a module is needed to make the bulb or LED operate at different brightness levels by changing the input voltage levels.
And even that doesn't always work right with cheap LED's.
Some bike's, not all seem to be able to operate LED's without the equalizer and others don't.
My 'guess' is that the flasher unit in those bikes may one of the newer electronic types and not the older bi-metalic strip thermal types.
But there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to know which bikes will do it or not in advance.
For example, when I put LED's in the back of my bike they started out blinking fast.
Then one day for no apparent reason they just stopped and started to work normally.
I have no idea why, they just do.
But as a general rule, whenever you install LED's in the turn signals.
Its smarter to put in the load resistor, equalizer, to duplicate the original design load in the circuit.
There are only two wires in the circuit, power and ground, so a LED or standard bulb has no idea whether its supposed to be on in run mode or get brighter for the brake.
Blinking is easy turn it on and its on, turn it off and its off.
But 12V is 12V, if there is voltage in the circuit, its on and it doesn't change brightness to distinguish between run or brake.
Using a module is needed to make the bulb or LED operate at different brightness levels by changing the input voltage levels.
And even that doesn't always work right with cheap LED's.
Some bike's, not all seem to be able to operate LED's without the equalizer and others don't.
My 'guess' is that the flasher unit in those bikes may one of the newer electronic types and not the older bi-metalic strip thermal types.
But there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to know which bikes will do it or not in advance.
For example, when I put LED's in the back of my bike they started out blinking fast.
Then one day for no apparent reason they just stopped and started to work normally.
I have no idea why, they just do.
But as a general rule, whenever you install LED's in the turn signals.
Its smarter to put in the load resistor, equalizer, to duplicate the original design load in the circuit.
The HD LED turn signals (part number 68128-10) DO act as RUN/TURN/BRAKE lights and they are designed to work without load equalizers (it even says so in the installation papers that come with it).
My guess it that the wiring in the rear light has a faulty pin in the Deutz plug.
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Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
I have LED run/turn/stop signals and was told I needed a load equalizer, to keep the dash light from blinking fast, like it's supposed to when there's a light out. I really didn't want to mess with it and asked Custom Dynamics if I REALLY needed the equalizer. They said no but my dash light would blink fast but not the LED lights. So I left it off.
It worked for me, but I also have the "can-bus adapter", or load equalizer...
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May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
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From: Rochester, NY
Oops, I didn't realize that the Heritage had three wires to the turns.
I was thinking of the two wire setup with a 1056 bulb that's used in my, and many other, Softails.
If your bike has three wires to the turn then it must have come with a 1057 or 3157 bulb that has both of the run, turn elements in it.
So your right, a LED designed for a bike that has a 1057/3157 socket would of necessity have to be designed to run at two different brightness levels.
So sorry, I erred.
I was thinking of the two wire setup with a 1056 bulb that's used in my, and many other, Softails.
If your bike has three wires to the turn then it must have come with a 1057 or 3157 bulb that has both of the run, turn elements in it.
So your right, a LED designed for a bike that has a 1057/3157 socket would of necessity have to be designed to run at two different brightness levels.
So sorry, I erred.