The video on the site shows exactly how it works. It's just a collar/spacer kit.

 

Just installed lowering bolts for the breakout.
They can be lowered to 2 1/2 inches with the kit I have.
They are made of stainless steel, very high quality.
I did have to remove and install with a press. Took mabe hour and half to do it and adjust the loads on it. I went 1 and 3/4 inch drop.
I have zero bottom out, and it just a lil stiffer.
Here is some pix of the after...

 

I put a set of progressive 422 shocks on, (not the "HD version", that would be too much for the non-bagger softail).

Lowering is nice- have it dropped 1.5". But the ride quality sucks compared to stock. It is not so much the compression and reduced travel, it is the lack of any rebound control whatsoever. The rebound damping is a set rate and cannot handle the increased compression of the lowered settings. Definitely an el-cheapo design of shock, but with a premium shock price tag. the more expensive version of this with the outboard ride compression setting control is a joke. Compression adjustment without rebound adjustment is useless. It would not be hard to design a set of softail shocks both compression and rebound settings. Use one shock for compression damping control and the other shock for rebound damping control. controls for each. done. The technology already exists but not in a product format that will fit softails. I think Ohlins had a sweet dual adjustable product at one time for early softails but unfortunately no more.

I've head the Shotgun Shocks for softail are legit and still provide a good ride at lowered heights. But you gotta pay to play due to limited mfr options. Or suck it up and ride rough

 

I thought about lowering mind but I'm worried about the ride...not for me but for my wife and right turns and my pipes dragging. I do like the way it looks.

 

Yeah me too, they look cool lowered about an inch!


But the trade off in ride and handling keep me with the stock set up. Also you must remember if you slack the rear, the geometry in the front changes. This takes away from cornering ability and slows the bike's direction changes even more. The stock Breakout suspension geometry already has PLENTY of straight line stability.

 

I have the softail lowering kit on my Slim and it is actually a decent kit. Takes maybe 1/2 an hour to install. Ride is that same, just bottoms earlier.

 

I run the Progressive 422s and I'm actually quite happy with them. The rear is lowered appr. 2'' and with a little added preload. With this setup I can even ride 2-up with almost no bottoming at all. Riding solo is a bit stiff though.

Next to come is progressive front springs to prevent the front end diving in when braking or going over bumps. Cornering is supposed to improve with this as well....

 

EagleRay- yeh i don't get much bottoming either, even with the wife on the back. it is really more the rebound control that is out of whack. that gets more noticeable with 2-up. but with just me on it around town it's nothing I can't live with / not so bad. but I'm still bummed we don't have better vendor supplied options other than going to an air ride setup.

Please read my front suspension upgrade sticky here in the softail forum before buying parts - don't get the progressive front springs, get the race tech single rate springs. dual rate springs on the front is a bad way to go and is the main reason our BO's dive too much from the factory. you'll be really surprised what the race tech springs and ricor dampers do for the bike. night and day improvement in all aspects. anyway I laid it all out, parts, sources, complete install steps, a
"Step by step instruction manual" for your dealer if they will do the work, etc. Getting the dampers is an equally important part of the equation and they are a "drop in" upgrade. no drilling or disassembling lower sliders. part costs are not bad either, it is a lot of upgrade result for the money.

The two single best upgrades you can do to the Breakout in terms of every day ride enjoyment and safety are upgrading the front suspension and putting on better tires. Stock tires are flat faced with bad transition from flat to cornering and the front tire is the wrong profile for the 21"x3.5" wheel. I listed the preferred tire brand and front size in that sticky as well. some guys prefer the Metz or newer Dunlop tires. The Pirelli's i listed are not as well known but are amazing tires for less money, and they do everything well in wet or dry. but anything is better than the stock tires and getting rid of the 130/60 front for a 120/70 makes a noticeable diff in corner handling.

 

Your wife will probably complain- mine does, she says it is "too bouncy", and well she's right.. lol.

I did some incremental measuring of contact points based on lowering the bike when I first put on the progressive 422's and cranked them all the way low. As long as your pipes don't extend much below the bottom frame line they won't be the first points of contact. From my looking at it, the front peg feelers, your boot heel, would touch first even at full lowered. but pipes that extend outward and down more, could be a concern.

 

Yes that is absolutely true - I had some concerns as well. But here is what I noticed after doing it if it helps. I gained so much improvement in cornering feel / effort by replacing the tires and re-doing front suspension, that the 1.5" drop in back did not cause a noticeable detraction. I'm still whipping it around just fine and it still feels on rails as much as a softail can, and it is overall way better than it was originally with stock tires / fork suspension.

Only time it is a little dicey is with wife on back, rear gets a bit out of control / under-damped at higher speeds on bumps. stock rear shocks are better in that regard or simply not lowering the 422's. trade-off acceptable at this point since I mostly ride solo.