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Shotgun shock question

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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 05:35 AM
  #21  
Benway's Avatar
Benway
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From: Dayton
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I had the same issue and just tightened the bolt down tight and figured it isn't going anywhere.

I also just routed the loop of airline up top, no cutting.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 08:11 AM
  #22  
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Ash16
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From: Rowlett, Texas
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I used my foot to break the rear shoulder bolt free instead of my hand and I didn't cut the hose either.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 11:40 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Ash16
I used my foot to break the rear shoulder bolt free instead of my hand and I didn't cut the hose either.

yup no heat needed just a short kick with the heel and they cracked loose
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 01:46 PM
  #24  
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Benway
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Originally Posted by Midgard

yup no heat needed just a short kick with the heel and they cracked loose
Bought a nice new box end wrench just for a tight fit when I whacked it with a hammer. Came right loose.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 02:16 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Benway
Bought a nice new box end wrench just for a tight fit when I whacked it with a hammer. Came right loose.
we just ground down an old one so it was thinner lol
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 05:11 PM
  #26  
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jam436
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
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Well, that's done...
Now to figure out the switches and all the different settings...
This things got a boatload of travel...

2.5" over stock:



Slammed:

 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 05:24 PM
  #27  
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24v
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I have yet to see a bike that doesn't look amazing slammed on a shotgun.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 05:47 PM
  #28  
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From: Mebane, NC
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Originally Posted by jam436
Well, that's done...
Now to figure out the switches and all the different settings...
This things got a boatload of travel...

2.5" over stock:



Slammed:

Welcome to the club!

My usual setting for riding solo is:
Both switches up until at maximum height then let the compressor run another 10 seconds or so.
Then rear switch down in short bursts 1-2-3-4. This usually puts the top of my fender right above the top of the rear rim. You can also just hold the rear switch down to a pre-determined height. The 1-2-3-4 works good for me. It's pretty reliable and I can do it without looking at the rear tire.
Then I usually give the front switch a quick down to let a very small amount of air out of the rebound. This will soften the ride up just a hair.

This is my usual solo setting for most applications. This lowers the bike a little so it looks cool and still provides a very comfortable ride. This will vary with each person depending on several factors.

Hope this helps and enjoy the ride!
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 05:47 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 24v
I have yet to see a bike that doesn't look amazing slammed on a shotgun.
Mine is about too... I can't WAIT!!

Btw JAM.... bike looks great!
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 06:42 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by harleyheaven
Welcome to the club!

My usual setting for riding solo is:
Both switches up until at maximum height then let the compressor run another 10 seconds or so.
Then rear switch down in short bursts 1-2-3-4. This usually puts the top of my fender right above the top of the rear rim. You can also just hold the rear switch down to a pre-determined height. The 1-2-3-4 works good for me. It's pretty reliable and I can do it without looking at the rear tire.
Then I usually give the front switch a quick down to let a very small amount of air out of the rebound. This will soften the ride up just a hair.

This is my usual solo setting for most applications. This lowers the bike a little so it looks cool and still provides a very comfortable ride. This will vary with each person depending on several factors.

Hope this helps and enjoy the ride!
Thanks - that helps a LOT.
One nice about this bike is it's strictly solo, so I don't have to worry about multiple setups for say, two-ups.
I figure once I get "in the zone" it'll likely stay there except to slam it for showing off purposes.

I talked to JD earlier today for a little feedback on the subject (I just wanted to make sure I was doing it right), and it turns out I have a newer configuration that was mentioned in the instructions. These are all momentary, up AND down - with center off, as opposed to the older "lock on" switches he used to use.

He gave me an instant walk-thru, as though he just dropped whatever he was doing just to tell me about it.
"Now try this..." "This is what happens when you do this..." etc...

And we also determined one of the switches might be bad as it felt a different than the other and didn't always "connect".
Took him all of two seconds to say he's sending out a new set of switches and the harness...
Un-freakin'-believable.
 
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