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You can safely use "auto" oil in the primary but make sure it doesn't say energy conserving on the API label. Most 10w-30 and below weights are energy concerving, 10w-40 and above not. I use regular old dino 10w40 in the primary of the FLHTK and will also on the FLSTF when it's due.
Any oil is better than no oil to get you where you need to be and to get a good bike oil. Synthetics are always best especially one with a good additive package. I only run Amsoil but there are oils out there that other guys use, swear by and recommend too. I run the 20/50, the same as I use in the motor.
At 20,000 miles per year I do 4 oil changes. 3 changes get Mobil V Twin 20w-50, (because of the zinc / phosphorus.) The winter time change gets Mobil 1 15W-50 automotive. The greater flow when cold is obvious in the reduced oil pressure when its freezing outside. ( 38 lb vs 32 lb at cold idle.)
The primary has never seen anything but Wal-Mart 20W-50 dino oil @ $2.87 a quart( 10W-40 in a pinch,) and everything in the primary is still original (except the spring cap on the compensator which I replaced 2 months ago just for good measure at 125,000 miles or so.)
The bike just passed 139,000 miles this week so I guess its doing OK with that combination.
I use Mobil 1 V Twin on my 2008 Fatboy. I use oil that the manufacturer says is designed for motorcycles. Not sure if it is any different, but I paid a lot of money for the bike and just do not wish to chance anything going wrong if I put the wrong oil in.
I wish the synthetic oil was thicker, to stop the damn ticking. I've been so tempted to add something to thicken it up. The sewing machine sound is driving me nuts. And it's embarrassing.
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