Hi, Hope someone has knowledge to help.
I have a Deuce Injection late 04 model. Bought by me last year.
I don't believe I have an alarm system on the bike as no fob passed to me and no alarm I can see or hear. Only barrel key.

Everything worked before work done>
I have since replaced handlebars and controls and now I have one indicator that does not work and no starter function. I did remove and replace battery with a new one.
I have checked all wiring and controls and all looks ok?
When I turn on ignition, I have neutral light and security key lights on. I have tried programing it to show any security codes by turning on off and indicators etc but speedo does not change( maybe does not have this function)
Also had tank to bits and no fuel in tank?
Does anyone have any idea why starter wont now work.?
Thanks John

 

Do you have the kill switch set to off?
I had a friend call me up and ask me to come over to help him start his bike. He couldn't figure what was wrong. I fired it right up. He couldn't believe it. He never used the kill switch, so when it somehow accidently got switched to the kill position, he never gave it a thought.
Tom

 

Thanks for that Tom, I can certainly state that I had the kill switch to on, and when trying to program the bike to get out of immobiliser state I had it Off. But thanks for answering me.

 

Stand back and look at what changed: everything worked before you changed your handlebars and wiring, therefore, it is a fairly safe bet that something among those changes you did was the cause for the new symptom. I'm honestly trying to help, not trying to be a dick.

I'm willing to bet it's a wiring issue, did you run the wiring inside of the new bars? Any chance a wire's insulation got scraped off when installing (was it a very tight hard pull to get the wires inside the bars, or even out of the old ones if they were internally wired)? A grounded wire for the starter control (inside of bars) would keep the starter from working. Does the light on dash go out when you push the starter button?

I've seen turn signals not work due to the wire getting pinched inside of the little housings they are mounted in, it's very cramped in there, sometimes the connection also breaks just by trying to force everything inside to be able to button up the housing on the handlebar. Maybe open the switch/control housing on the handlebar and try both pushbuttons to see if anything changes, if it does you may need to shorten up some of that wiring to make more room.

Is the non-working turn signal the right hand side one? That's the same side as the starter push button, any chance you got those two wires mixed up? If the wiring to the handlebars was new, was it run all the way back to where they end, or were they spliced into the existing harness? Check your splices/connections, are they solid tight connections? Certain they were wired correctly?

Hope this helps, I've been through a couple wiring issues myself after letting the stealership do some work on the fatboy, they can be frustrating to find. A multimeter is invaluable in finding the root cause of such issues if the cause is in fact a wiring issue, using resistance, simply check the wires for continuity to ground (frame), and remember to use a good unpainted ground point.

Good luck with finding the problem.

 

Thanks BarrettsPrivateer. you make some good points. I have taken the handlebar controls off to check and all seemed ok, (Custom Chrome set, not as good as originals) I will take them off again tomorrow night and let you know if I can get the starter working without it clamped up. If no luck I will take the wires out and start again, but it all seems good.
Re indicator yes it is the right side but the rear one works, so if it were the switch then why would the rear one work? I have checked bulb and holder, no issues.

I'm still thinking alarm unit , not liking something, maybe battery off too long ( three weeks) and its no longer playing. Maybe its set the immobiliser and cant now re set?

Thanks, its making me think.

 

If the rear turn signal works, it is not a problem with the switch or the turn signal module.

The turn signal module is getting the signal from the turn signal switch, and it is sending power to the turn signal circuit ( the brown wire coming out of the turn signal module).

Take a look at the wiring diagram:

After the wire comes out of the module, it branches off into two legs:

One leg goes to the dash indicator, then on to the rear turn signal.

The other leg goes to the front signal. Trace this wire back from the front signal, somewhere between the signal and where the wire runs into the harness is likely where the problem is.

From looking at the diagram, it looks like the turn signal problem could be a coincidence.

As far as the start problem, try a couple of easy things before you tear into the controls:

Check the ignition fuse.

Check for voltage at the starter relay (the terminal with the black/red wire).

There should be power at this terminal when the start button is pressed (ignition on, kill switch on). If the terminal gets power when the button is pressed, the start switch is working properly.

 

Thanks Dan89FLSTC I will check Tomorrow, See what I can come up with,

 

Dan89FLSTC, good call on the rear signal working, for some reason I had it in my head one whole side wasn't working. Perhaps in the future I should pay better attention to the original post, where Flightmast clearly stated he had one indicator not working....my mistake, oops. If the rear is working and front is not, then the issue would have to be the actual turn signal light fixture, bulb, wire connections, or actual wiring to that dead turn signal fixture. Due to the only thing having changed being the wiring and connections, thats what I would suspect.

Another good idea was verifying the start cct before ripping and tearing, as Dan89FLSTC mentioned in his above post. You may also wanna check voltage levels before ripping apart your wiring job. Assuming all fuses are good, battery voltage with iginition off should be well above 12v, what happens to battery voltage when you hit the start button? If it drops in 1/2 without starting the bike, the control cct is working, but the battery hasn't enough charge to start the bike. If battery voltage doesn't flinch when you hit the start button, issue is in the control cct or as you suspect some type of feature with the security system. But if you see any voltage level at the starter relay when you hit the start button, rule out a security system issue (if it was a security issue, the security wouldn't allow an attempt to start). Also, FYI: bad ground connections can do weird things.

Please keep us posted on what you find, I'd like to know what the problem was.

Good luck.

 

Thanks BarrettsPrivateer, I'm on with it soon, I agree with what you both say, I have a new battery on the bike and everything worked great before I started a lot of work on the bike over winter, but most cosmetic, so I will keep going, thanks

 

When you said you used a custom chrome set, did you mean that you got all new wiring to run through the bars? Or did you lengthen and solder the wiring extensions in? My first thought reading the original post was maybe bad solder joints. I agree with the voltmeter ideas posted above. Start at one end of the circuit (I tend to start at the place things aren't working) and go component by component and find it by trial and error. And yes, bad grounds can do really weird stuff. I too am curious what the problem winds up being...