mini ape install
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Olathe, ks
mini ape install
I have been searching and reading but can't find a write up of an install on handle bars. I called my 3 local harley shops. All 3 told me minimum of $500 + for an instal. I just don't see what I am paying for when I am supplying the bars, and cables. I just can't imagine it will take that long. Does anybody know of a how to video? Or a step by step guide to change over to 10" mini apes on a 09 harley iron. Do I need to change all the cables for this? Will the factory cables work? They all look like they would be long enough with out switching cables.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 5,149
From: Robbm sucks
http://www.ehow.com/how_12176559_rem...handlebar.html
give that a read.. also do a video search on google/bing as I find visual instruction a big help too when learning new stuff.
give that a read.. also do a video search on google/bing as I find visual instruction a big help too when learning new stuff.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 2
From: Western Washington
Just start working on it and you will find out. Cover your tank with a towel so when the bars are loose they don't fall and dent your tank. It wil most likely just be your front brake line that needs to be lengthened at your local hose shop. The othe cables and wires should be long enough. Some of the wire can be rerouted by cutting the zip ties. Changing the bars is easy. The most time consuming part is bleeding the air out of the brake line.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 146
Likes: 2
From: SouthWest Arizona
$500 at a shop is actually cheap considering they would change out the throttle/idle cables (plus adjustment), clutch cable (plus adjustment), brake line (plus brake bleed), and extend all the wring to the bars (cutting and soldering). Its not anything you couldn't do on your own with some patience and time. Yes there are a million ways to cut corners or do a hack job that will get the job done, but this is something you want to do right. Stock throttle/idle cables and clutch cable should work fine but they will have to be rerouted. Wires will more than likely have to be extended, although you should have more than enough length in your turn signal wiring so just reroute the wiring and you should be able to keep the signals up on the bars. Your brake line should definitely be changed out. You could bend the metal part you could let it off the p-clamps and hang loose, it'll all work but its something you want to replace as soon as possible.
I took my tank off the bike just so I could have better access to the wires and cables and I wouldn't have to worry about my tank getting dinged up.
Go ahead and give it a shot but if you get to a point where you think you're in over your head, stop, take it to the shop, let them deal with it from there. Good luck!
I took my tank off the bike just so I could have better access to the wires and cables and I wouldn't have to worry about my tank getting dinged up.
Go ahead and give it a shot but if you get to a point where you think you're in over your head, stop, take it to the shop, let them deal with it from there. Good luck!
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 969
Likes: 3
From: Maine
I always change my own bars ... I'm not willing to pay someone else a hundred bucks an hour to do something I am perfectly capable of doing.
The first time is a little nerve racking but if you take your time and have all your parts prior to start, you can get through it. The key to success is to measure, measure and measure before you tear anything down. I use a piece of string for the cable measurements. Always cover your tank and front fender with a thick towel to protect them. Take breaks ... don't try to get it done in one shot. My install of 16" apes on my Sportster took me almost 5 hours. Work a couple hours and stop for a while and relax before continuing.
After doing it once you will never pay someone else to do it for you again.
The first time is a little nerve racking but if you take your time and have all your parts prior to start, you can get through it. The key to success is to measure, measure and measure before you tear anything down. I use a piece of string for the cable measurements. Always cover your tank and front fender with a thick towel to protect them. Take breaks ... don't try to get it done in one shot. My install of 16" apes on my Sportster took me almost 5 hours. Work a couple hours and stop for a while and relax before continuing.
After doing it once you will never pay someone else to do it for you again.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 1
From: Virginia
Hey Skitzer, what would your advice be for bleeding brakes? Do the bleeder kits they sell help? (harbor freight has one for like $20)
I was trying to install new bars on my Iron and the only think that is too short is the brake like, but about 2 inches. I would like to do it, but have absolutely no experience with bleeding brakes.
I was trying to install new bars on my Iron and the only think that is too short is the brake like, but about 2 inches. I would like to do it, but have absolutely no experience with bleeding brakes.
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 128
Likes: 2
From: NW Arkansas
look up dellboy's garage on youtube, he has great videos. one of them shows you how to completely drain your brake lines.
the easiest way to learn is 1. youtube 2. just do it, if you get stuck, post a pic and a question (key word - picture) and you will get help as you go.
with 10" apes you should be able to reuse your wires, but you will have to get a new brake line. drag specialties is pretty good for universal stuff.
the easiest way to learn is 1. youtube 2. just do it, if you get stuck, post a pic and a question (key word - picture) and you will get help as you go.
with 10" apes you should be able to reuse your wires, but you will have to get a new brake line. drag specialties is pretty good for universal stuff.
