Sportster Models 883, 883 Custom, 1200 Custom, 883L, 1200L, 1200S, 1200 Roadster, XR1200, and the Nightster.
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883 to 1200 conversion

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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 06:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Nosoup4u
Is it really as simple as it sounds, just take off the rocker boxes, heads, then replace? Has anyone ran into any issues or has any pointers before I start?
I just completed the SE 883 to 1200 conversion. I had not opened a 4 stroke motor since the 8th grade (40+ years ago).... but, if you can follow directions, know your way around a torque wrench, and want to to have a little fun, then you can do the job. I did need an extra pair of hands when dropping the cylinder heads onto the pistons but beyond that i just took my time and followed along the service manual. There is also a lot of good information on Youtube and this forum. So it's all very doable. I spent about two weekends working on it. Downloaded the recommended ECU fuel map and the Motor fired up right away no issues. I have not really let out the throttle yet as I've not yet installed the new clutch spring and i want to break it in and take it slow at first. Have yet to go over 3000 rpm. Got up to 60 mph today and there is much much less vibration. Didn't even realize i was going 60 except that it was only 43 deg out and I was freezing my a$$ off. Can't wait to really let out the throttle!

There are a number of specialty tools recommended, some you can build on your own. The only ones i bought were the ring compression tool and the clutch spring compression tool. Had to practice installing circle clips on the wrist pins. Use your 883 pistons to do that. I didn't want to mess those up.
Take lots of pictures before you take things apart, like wiring harnesses, tubes, electrical caddies etc. Buy a torque wrench and get the Service Manual.

Good luck!
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 08:02 PM
  #22  
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I'd add that you should look through the entire disassembly and reassembly process in your service manual and note the minimum and maximum torque settings you'll need to cover (in both inch and foot pounds) before buying your torque wrenches so that you know you'll be able to do what you need to do. Also be aware that your foot pound torque wrench needs to be able to measure torque in both directions because the clutch nut is reverse threaded. The upgrade is as simple as following directions, take your time and it's easy.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 02:38 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by kenny55
I just completed the SE 883 to 1200 conversion. I had not opened a 4 stroke motor since the 8th grade (40+ years ago).... but, if you can follow directions, know your way around a torque wrench, and want to to have a little fun, then you can do the job. I did need an extra pair of hands when dropping the cylinder heads onto the pistons but beyond that i just took my time and followed along the service manual. There is also a lot of good information on Youtube and this forum. So it's all very doable. I spent about two weekends working on it. Downloaded the recommended ECU fuel map and the Motor fired up right away no issues. I have not really let out the throttle yet as I've not yet installed the new clutch spring and i want to break it in and take it slow at first. Have yet to go over 3000 rpm. Got up to 60 mph today and there is much much less vibration. Didn't even realize i was going 60 except that it was only 43 deg out and I was freezing my a$$ off. Can't wait to really let out the throttle!

There are a number of specialty tools recommended, some you can build on your own. The only ones i bought were the ring compression tool and the clutch spring compression tool. Had to practice installing circle clips on the wrist pins. Use your 883 pistons to do that. I didn't want to mess those up.
Take lots of pictures before you take things apart, like wiring harnesses, tubes, electrical caddies etc. Buy a torque wrench and get the Service Manual.

Good luck!
did you do the gearing as well???
by how much did the vibration go down???

regards
Sören
 
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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 06:49 PM
  #24  
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Cant wait until I do mine!!
 
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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 07:59 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Søren Rix Petersen
did you do the gearing as well???
by how much did the vibration go down???

regards
Sören
Did not change the cams or the transmission. On my first ride where I hit max speed of 60 mph i would say the vibration reduction was very significant, very noticeable. It was cold out but not too windy and I could only tolerate a few miles both directions with the cold air. Obviously I would like to take it out and give it a good run in other conditions so its too early to really say. Right now I'm replacing the clutch diaphragm spring and hopefully the weather breaks this weekend. Will provide another update after that.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 09:39 AM
  #26  
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I've got about 150 miles since I did the Hammer 1250 conversion. I am still breaking it in. I have the stock gears and clutch. I'm wondering if my clutch needs an upgrade. I believe I have an older style clutch that is a bit more robust. Can anybody chime in on this ? So far, the engine runs great after a little tuning. Off the line it is a totally different bike.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 10:20 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by JimmyL
I've got about 150 miles since I did the Hammer 1250 conversion. I am still breaking it in. I have the stock gears and clutch. I'm wondering if my clutch needs an upgrade. I believe I have an older style clutch that is a bit more robust. Can anybody chime in on this ? So far, the engine runs great after a little tuning. Off the line it is a totally different bike.
Your clutch can handle the basic upgrade. It's the 04+ 883 clutch that is too light.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 09:20 PM
  #28  
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Just got done replacing the diaphragm spring for my SE 1200 conversion. All tasks now complete. The new spring really didn't feel any different in terms of pulling in the clutch handle. I read some discussions that its much harder to pull in. No issues here. Had to take it for a quick spin tonight when i finished up and it didn't fly apart on me so that's a good thing. Lol.

I bought a diaphragm spring compression tool but didn't realize it was coming from China. Mistake. Still waiting on that to arrive so I made one with a 3" PVC coupler and a metal bar. Worked pretty good. There's a good youtube video on that. Guess i'll ebay my china tool when it arrives!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 08:18 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by kenny55
Just got done replacing the diaphragm spring for my SE 1200 conversion. All tasks now complete. The new spring really didn't feel any different in terms of pulling in the clutch handle. I read some discussions that its much harder to pull in. No issues here. Had to take it for a quick spin tonight when i finished up and it didn't fly apart on me so that's a good thing. Lol.

I bought a diaphragm spring compression tool but didn't realize it was coming from China. Mistake. Still waiting on that to arrive so I made one with a 3" PVC coupler and a metal bar. Worked pretty good. There's a good youtube video on that. Guess i'll ebay my china tool when it arrives!
Your wheels were made in China, plus whatever device you use to post on HDF! Jus' sayin'......
 
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