Turn signal extended switch cap replacement
I wouldn't call it stressful. It does take time and I didn't find it difficult. It is a game of tetris to get the switch to go back into place. The 2017 was easier than the 2008 for some reason I can't remember.
Here I am holding the switch with the bottom up. Look just above my thumb and you can see the light gray area where the little tab broke off.
In this next shot you can partly see my Mc Gyver fix. I used JB weld to weld a piece of plastic to the base of the switch and the metal bracket. It is sitting with a warming lamp on it overnight to cure it.
I had to remove the chrome cap (again) to do this so I will have to re-install it again tomorrow. I am repairing it because, 1. I don't want to wait a week for a new one, and 2. There is nothing wrong with this one, except the tab I broke. I will probably purchase one online to have incase it does not hold up, then I won't have to wait for it.
I have used JB pretty successfully like this before, so I am hoping. Oh yes, I was browsing over the instructions that came with the extended caps, amd lo and behold and excellent drawing of the spring side of the switch, showing exactly how it goes. Duhhhh! I didn't even look before becauce I already knew how to change the cap.
This is where the tab goes thriugh the housing making it so difficult to re-assemble, for those that have never done this chinese torture test before.
Will post an update on my "fix" and hopefully install when I get back to it.
THANKS FOR POSTING THE VIDEO! Unfortunately, what I need is some clarity on the spring that is on the right side turn signal switch (I believe it is inside the cover). The right side turn signal switch only moves a little, and it will not work. I think it's because the spring came loose and is jammed inside the turn signal switch cover. If anyone has pictures/video/information on how to get to that spring, I'd sure appreciate hearing from you! Thanks again!
The RH side is the worst in my opinion. There are three different sizes of torx screws, if you remove the brake assy. Otherwise just 2. The 20 removes the switch housing and I think its a 15 that holds the switch bracket to the switch housing. That screw is a bitch to get to.
Sorry to say there is no other way to reach that spring.
All of this is covered but the cap itself, but you can see it with the cap on, and if the spring is not right you can probably see that too. Personally, I doubt its the spring, most likely the switch. You might try lubing the pivot points of the switch and see if that frees it up.
Good luck.
Probably would not have done it if I had known this ahead of time.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Why do most parts come today with directions looking like something bought at Ikea?
Maybe thumb extensions would be easier?









