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2003 883... ever seen these pipes?

Old Dec 11, 2019 | 03:04 PM
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The stock exhaust (86-03) paired with some good slip on mufflers performs as well as you're going to get, unless you go for a tuned 2:1 exhaust system. Dyno tests confirm.

Most aftermarket systems are, to quote Macbeth, "full of sound and fury, signifying nothing."

John
 

Last edited by John Harper; Dec 11, 2019 at 03:07 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 10:28 PM
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Thank you for that! I actually have some screamin eagle cans that I got off of craigslist near by thinking ahead. I am going to try some lollipops now that I got it running a bit better.

I jumped the pilot from 45 to 54, as well as replaced the carb to intake gasket and that made a world of difference.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by VAFish
Look like straight pipes. Tough to get jetting right for street riding. You could try adding a set of lollipops.
I would like your insight here. I got the bike running a massive load better with a new gasket between the carb and manifold, as well as jumping the pilot from a #45 to #54. big jump, but another post reply mentioned that the rods (outside the heads - I still don't know what they are) look aftermarket and that there could be cam work done on this as well. That would definitely require more gas flow, especially with a big sucker and free flowing pipes.

Per your note on lollipops. I fashioned some at Home Depot, thinking my pipes were 2". Mine use 1.25" washers. However, after getting home I realized the drag pipes were 1.75". Will 1.25" lollipops in 1.75" drag pipes (only .5" of clearance), be too large? People on this forum mention night and day differences with just an open eye-screw, so I am worried that 1.25" lollipops would effectively choke the pipes.

Thanks again and would love to hear your thoughts!
 
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 11:00 PM
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DK Customs MIGHT chime in on the size, but since it isn't their product, I do not know. Based on the size of the Thunder Torque inserts I was recommended for my Cobra slip ons, I would say you are right in the park. My pipes are 2" and the TTIs are about 1.5".
 
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 11:04 PM
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Oh yes, the "rods" outside the heads are pushrod tubes. The cams are in the case below them. The hydraulic lifters ride on top of the cams, and the push rods on top of the lifters. The pushrods go to the heads to work the rocker arms, that in turn, push open the valves in the head.

Google a cutaway of a sportster engine.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2019 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Wrenching24/7
I jumped the pilot from 45 to 54, as well as replaced the carb to intake gasket and that made a world of difference.
54 Pilot jet???? I don't think I've ever read of anyone using more than a 48 pilot jet, and that's only one post I recall. I'd wager most all of us use a 45, even on highly modified bikes.

Are you sure you don't have a massive vacuum leak? Did you replace the manifold to head seals? Be sure to coat them with high temp red grease and install with care.

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Last edited by John Harper; Dec 15, 2019 at 09:50 AM.
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Old Dec 15, 2019 | 11:03 AM
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That is next on my list, the primary reason for not being simply that I don't have the tools to remove the manifold just yet. Even with that 54, I would think any leak that is "massive" in nature would present itself during riding/idling wouldn't it? I have experienced none of the traditional hanging, popping, or otherwise usually experienced with lean running.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2019 | 12:37 PM
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I've never read of anyone using a 54 pilot jet. If you have a garbage disposal wrench you can change the manifold to head seals, it should fit fine. Just wait to do the final tightening after you have the carb mounted in place and secure, so you don't stress the seals. The manifold bolts only take about 10 ft. lbs, not much.

John
 
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Old Dec 15, 2019 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Wrenching24/7
That is next on my list, the primary reason for not being simply that I don't have the tools to remove the manifold just yet. Even with that 54, I would think any leak that is "massive" in nature would present itself during riding/idling wouldn't it? I have experienced none of the traditional hanging, popping, or otherwise usually experienced with lean running.
Old trick to check for leaks is spray WD40 around the mating areas, see if it gets sucked in anywhere and the engine rpm picks up.

Reading back, I don't see anything about the mixture screw. The seal plug is off that and you adjusted it? Not trying to cast doubts on your mechanical skill, sometimes we just get focused on something and forget the little things. Left on the factory setting, that could still be lean with straight pipes and even a 48 jet. Also, pull a spark plug after running it a few miles and see if it's black, would indicate it's running rich. Sometimes they feel ok when they're sucking in more gas than they need. Also, if it starts cold and idles fine without pulling out the enrichment valve (choke), it's probably running rich, Sportsters are usually pretty cold blooded.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2019 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Wrenching24/7
I would like your insight here. I got the bike running a massive load better with a new gasket between the carb and manifold, as well as jumping the pilot from a #45 to #54. big jump, but another post reply mentioned that the rods (outside the heads - I still don't know what they are) look aftermarket and that there could be cam work done on this as well. That would definitely require more gas flow, especially with a big sucker and free flowing pipes.

Per your note on lollipops. I fashioned some at Home Depot, thinking my pipes were 2". Mine use 1.25" washers. However, after getting home I realized the drag pipes were 1.75". Will 1.25" lollipops in 1.75" drag pipes (only .5" of clearance), be too large? People on this forum mention night and day differences with just an open eye-screw, so I am worried that 1.25" lollipops would effectively choke the pipes.

Thanks again and would love to hear your thoughts!
If you left the hole open in your 1.25" washers, you're not going to choke it too much. There will be some sacrifice of higher RPM power, but you will get a nice gain in low and mid range.

Here's a LINK to a very informative article about what you're doing, why it work, and even how you can get more out of it.
 
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