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Since I didn't see anyone mention it, the small springs go under the damper tubes and the longer ones go on top. The OP seemed like he was not sure of their purpose. They are rebound springs, so the damper tubes do not hit the fork lowers when weight is lifted off the front end, as in hard acceleration or even a wheelie.
I have a question for some of you. I see everyone saying the springs should sit at or above the top of the slider tube, when fully extended. Mine sit between 2-3" above. They are progressive springs, and were on the bike when I got it. The front end was never stiff, in fact, it nose dived terribly before I did my last change.
This is with forks fully extended and no spacers.
The biggest change I made was welding shut, 2 of the 4 damper holes, and going with HD Screaming Eagle fork oil. Nose dive is gone now, but the front still flexes in bumps, although it is slightly stiffer, but it feels so much more solid now than before. I REALLY notice the rear end now.
Thanks again.
Now I was reading about Progressive Monotube Fork Cartridge Kit For Harley Sportsters.
Are these avaible for a 2002 Sportster Custom?
I don't seem to see them online for a 2002 Sportster.
Since I didn't see anyone mention it, the small springs go under the damper tubes and the longer ones go on top. The OP seemed like he was not sure of their purpose. They are rebound springs, so the damper tubes do not hit the fork lowers when weight is lifted off the front end, as in hard acceleration or even a wheelie.
I have a question for some of you. I see everyone saying the springs should sit at or above the top of the slider tube, when fully extended. Mine sit between 2-3" above. They are progressive springs, and were on the bike when I got it. The front end was never stiff, in fact, it nose dived terribly before I did my last change.
This is with forks fully extended and no spacers.
The biggest change I made was welding shut, 2 of the 4 damper holes, and going with HD Screaming Eagle fork oil. Nose dive is gone now, but the front still flexes in bumps, although it is slightly stiffer, but it feels so much more solid now than before. I REALLY notice the rear end now.
What are you running on the rear again?
Are you still running the touring air shocks? ( I have some 12" and 13" touring air shocks to try on mine)
I don't know about the length sticking out of the tubes.
I think it was said those short springs don't come with the Progressive 11-1523 standard spring set.
How about this set, Has the Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge fork emulators and high-performance springs.
But I don't really want to lower the bike. (2002 Sportster Custom)
Also includes hardware to lower bike 1" or 2"
Does this mean I don't have to use the lowering hardware?
Race Tech complete front-end suspension kits improve comfort and performance of damping rod forks
More than just fork lowering kits, these come with Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge fork emulators and high-performance springs
Also include hardware to lower bike 1" or 2"
Kits with .80kg/mm spring rate are recommended for riders up to 140 lb.; .85kg/mm is recommended for riders between 140-180 lb.; .90-1.0kg/mm is recommended for riders over 180 lb.
The way they lower the front is by using 2 of the short springs on the bottom of the damper tube. They come with just one, and thats all you need to put back on, if you do not want it lower.
I am still, for now, running the air shocks. They are 13".
When you take your forks apart, just save the existing small springs, and reuse them. Might be a good idea to get new fork seals and replace those while you are at it.
I used the HD method to measure how much oil I put back in. I made a gauge. I used a piece of 1/4" copper tubing run through a piece of plywood. It sticks about 1-1/2" above the top, and in my case 5-3/4" below. Then I connect a large syringe to the copper tube, via a piece of plastic tubing. I pour the oil in the fork, and use the syringe to suck oil out, till it only sucks air.
The forks have to be off the bike, the forks compressed all the way, and standing upright, with spring removed, to use this method. Its all in the FSM, so go by that.
I believe its GRBrown that says he has used the emulators and was not impressed.
ok, I might just go with the progressives I see you have to drill the damper tubes and stuff I had my metal lathe all set up and drill press is all set up at the other place but this place is just a disaster since I moved here and it's not working out for me I don't have anything set up to properly work.
it's a whole big thing.
pretty well sucks actually.
so I might just go with the progressives. I can handle that job at least.
I assume you mean with intiminators? To drill the dampers? I drilled out mine when ai went with the "R" tubes, and had to take them back out and weld the new holes up. Was WAY to quick to compress with 4 holes. So I went back to 2 holes in the dampers and used Screaming Eagle fork oil. Problem solved. Good ride and no more nose dive.
The way they lower the front is by using 2 of the short springs on the bottom of the damper tube. They come with just one, and thats all you need to put back on, if you do not want it lower.
I am still, for now, running the air shocks. They are 13".
When you take your forks apart, just save the existing small springs, and reuse them. Might be a good idea to get new fork seals and replace those while you are at it.
I used the HD method to measure how much oil I put back in. I made a gauge. I used a piece of 1/4" copper tubing run through a piece of plywood. It sticks about 1-1/2" above the top, and in my case 5-3/4" below. Then I connect a large syringe to the copper tube, via a piece of plastic tubing. I pour the oil in the fork, and use the syringe to suck oil out, till it only sucks air.
The forks have to be off the bike, the forks compressed all the way, and standing upright, with spring removed, to use this method. Its all in the FSM, so go by that.
yeah, you sort of made your on tool to measure the oil. I'll come up with something similar to what you did.
Well like I said, if I was set up better here.
it's not going to happen in this place. I'm trying to get out of here, but can't catch a break.
I don't even have a bench or anything.
I thought about changing the seals and at least checking the bushing. Been reading and watched a few videos, looks easy enough.
they're not leaking, so I think I 'll just pull the forks, dump the oil, and flush them a little, and set my oil level and button it up with the new Progressive Springs and preload spacers.
I assume you mean with intiminators? To drill the dampers? I drilled out mine when ai went with the "R" tubes, and had to take them back out and weld the new holes up. Was WAY to quick to compress with 4 holes. So I went back to 2 holes in the dampers and used Screaming Eagle fork oil. Problem solved. Good ride and no more nose dive.
I'm not a hundred hundred percent certain but I'm pretty sure it was the emulators like I showed with that kit above I found a PDF for that and they had you drilling out I think for more holes I can't be sure it's on the big computer right now I'll upload it later tomorrow or something. Same idea though emulators Intimidators whatever the heck they're called but yeah they had you drilling out the additional holes in the dampers like I said I don't have nowhere to work right I'm not going to bother with all that if I was back at my old place I had to drill press in the vices and everything set up nice a nice pants I could lay it out with Dykem nicely and center punch it set it up with a drill press nice I made a mistake moving where I moved but I didn't know till I got here.
Last edited by mrbreezeett1; Mar 29, 2020 at 12:54 AM.
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