Activating AGM Battery?
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HDF Community Team
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From: San Diego, CA
Activating AGM Battery?
Rebuilding carb, manifold seals, and putting a new AGM (dry) battery in a buddy's bike. Instructions are not clear about pre-charging battery after I add the electrolyte. I've gone from lead/acid direct to lithium myself, never activated/owned an AGM. I'm guessing a 2A charge for a couple hours or so? I can check with my multi-meter, I read 12.7V fully charged for AGM?
John
John
Last edited by John Harper; Mar 7, 2020 at 07:44 PM.
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From: England
I had to do this a long time ago. The battery is dry charged and when the acid is added it takes the battery to nearly fully charged.
An initial charge is required before use. A tender charger overnight will do or a proper charger will obviously do it quicker.
An initial charge is required before use. A tender charger overnight will do or a proper charger will obviously do it quicker.
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From: Bedford UK
Having owned bikes for decades my advice based on long-standing experience with new batteries is to ignore any 'fully charged' stuff! Charge the battery overnight as suggested above first. If the engine gives any problems with starting it, after the work you have done, the battery is unlikely to have the reserves required to repeatedly attempt to start it. Having got it running, take it out for a decent ride for an hour or so - to reward you for your success and give the battery a decent recharge for its efforts!
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HDF Community Team
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From: San Diego, CA
Thanks for the advice, everyone! Tested my old charger this morning, getting 0V from the 2A setting, so I guess I'm going to try a float charger/maintainer on it. I guess after almost 40 years, my old battery charger just gave up the ghost (probably loaned out one too many times!). I'm going to test the new battery voltage right after I activate it, just to see how close it is with just electrolyte, the put it on the charger until it reads "full." Carb and seals done, so just need to add some power to the electrics and should be good to go.
John
John
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From: England
I guess after almost 40 years, my old battery charger just gave up the ghost (probably loaned out one too many times!).
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From: Indianapolis
Personally, I wouldn't use a 2 amp charger for any extended amount of time on a motorcycle battery, an hour or two tops. I ruined a new ATV battery leaving a 2 amp charger on it for 4 hours or so, boiled it dry. An almost $100 f**k up. IMO, lower amperage, longer amount of time. You do not want to generate heat.
YMMV...
YMMV...
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: San Diego, CA
Personally, I wouldn't use a 2 amp charger for any extended amount of time on a motorcycle battery, an hour or two tops. I ruined a new ATV battery leaving a 2 amp charger on it for 4 hours or so, boiled it dry. An almost $100 f**k up. IMO, lower amperage, longer amount of time. You do not want to generate heat.
YMMV...
YMMV...
John
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HDF Community Team
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From: San Diego, CA
Obviously had it worked it would be fine but in this day and age with intelligent chargers I would consign that one to a museum. The new ones will stop when the battery is fully charged. The old one will keep going and boil the battery dry. With no way to top up the battery once you put the seal in that is clearly not in your best interest.
John
Just chiming in to confirm what everyone else says, seems like AGM batteries like lower charge rates than wet cell lead acid types. I have a Stanley battery charger (doesn't have an adjustable AMP setting) that is fully automatic, and it roasted a perfectly good AGM battery on my old motorcycle. Even though the charger's instructions said it was safe for AGM, I heard audible bubbling coming from the battery after 15 min of charging. Pulled the plug but it was already damaged.
Only using a battery tender from here on out to charge my battery.
Only using a battery tender from here on out to charge my battery.