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My buddy bought an 03 883 sporty that had sat for 3 years as a project. He got it cranked finally. When he turned it off and pulled the dipstick, oil was running out of the oil tank. He changed the oil and put 3 quarts in he said.
After reading up, he wanted to check the gear on the pinion shaft that turns the oil pump gear. Well, when removing the cam chest cover, the cams came out with the cover.
1.) can he re-install the cams without tearing down the rocker boxes as is if he lines the #2 cam mark with the pinion shaft mark since everything else is lined up off of that?
Get a factory service manual. I have no knowledge of rebuilding the engine so I would start there.
The FSM explains how to do the oil change (obviously) and the procedure is not to just blindly put 3 quarts in. One problem with dry sump engines is until it has been run the oil is not in the tank. He might not of drained out 3 quarts.
Get a factory service manual. I have no knowledge of rebuilding the engine so I would start there.
The FSM explains how to do the oil change (obviously) and the procedure is not to just blindly put 3 quarts in. One problem with dry sump engines is until it has been run the oil is not in the tank. He might not of drained out 3 quarts.
+1. This is one of the two reasons you drain the oil when it is hot. The main reason is to fill the oil tank so you get it all drained and not leave a lot in the crankcase (yes, there is always oil in the crankcase but it is minimal) and the secondary reason is to have the fines in the oil itself and not sitting on the bottom of the tank.
Also note that the oil dipstick should be checked when the bike is level on pre-2004 models and checked when the bike is leaning on the jiffy stand on 2004-up up models.
Most people do NOT fill the level to the top of the dipstick, but try to keep it at the 1/2 to 2/3 full mark because too much oil can send "blow-by" out the breather tubes, into the air filter box and down the side of the bike. (You can vent the breather bolts to the atmosphere, but that is another story; you never want "blow-by" regardless of where it vents.)
Another thing you may want to look in is the oil pump bronze gear upgrade as recommended by Hammer Performance. Since you are gonna be in the vicinity anyway
Thanks for all the replies. I get all the oil info and thank you for it. I was asking about the best way to re-set the cams from the current situation.
The rocker boxes, pushrods and lifters will need to come out. Be sure to get them back in the same way they came out. It's not that bad if you take it one step at a time. Get some gaskets, o-rings, umbrella valves and assembly lube, soak the lifters in Marvel Mystery oil. Wouldn't hurt to get an upgraded oil pump and bronze oil pump drive gear while you're in there. Make sure the cams are lined up as in the manual.
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