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So today When I took my tank off to do intake gaskets I saw a wire with a butt connector leading back to a circle unit opposite of my key switch. The unit also had a short 1/4in line connected which I could only assume is a tank vent? If anyone can help me with identifying the part pictured and well as where the connections go that’d be great, thanks.
That is your VOES, or, Vacuum Operated Electric Switch. Basically an vacuum on/off switch set to trigger at a set engine vacuum.. It changes your timing curve under certain vacuum (load) conditions to control emissions/detonation. There should be a connector forward on your wiring harness along the backbone, just ahead of that bracket it's mounted to. Unless a previous owner installed an ignition that does not use the VOES, it is important to have it working. You can damage your engine otherwise from what one of the major vendors of engine kits (Hammer Performance) says. I upgraded my engine to a 1250 and upgraded the ignition and I use my VOES. Look for near where your horn wires come out of the main harness, IIRC. The other wire from the VOES needs to go to a ground, on my bike, the rear engine bracket bolt just aft of the keyswitch.
Also, make sure you have a vacuum line from the VOES to the top of the carburetor where there is a vacuum tap. 3/16" is the size vacuum line you need.
Crap, I see you have an S&S carb, so perhaps you might want to do a bit of research and see what has been done to your bike before re-connecting stuff.
Good luck!
John
Last edited by John Harper; Aug 8, 2021 at 07:37 PM.
So that actually kinda clears a little up, the top of my carb is capped off like nothing is suppose to go there is an aftermarket ultima ignition, I see where it says V.O.E.S and how it’s not switched on. That means I should be good correct? And how do you like the hammer 1250 heard that was one of the best out there and will be looking to do it later down the road.
Very, very happy with Hammer 1250 kit. No oil leaks (unlike original H-D gaskets!), plenty of power, spark plugs look textbook perfect color. Transforms the bike completely. And, runs smoother than when it was an 883.
Doing the conversion wasn't too difficult, managed it all by myself (needed a hand with wrist pin circlip only). For just over $1000, I ended up with a 1250 kit ($800) and much better braking with a Wilwood front caliper ($225). Go fast, stop fast.
I kept the 883 gearing which makes the bike a little rocket. I don't do a lot of freeway driving so no need for taller gearing. Plus, the acceleration rush can't be beat.
You know, I think that VOES switch set to OFF means you should have the VOES connected. I'm not sure as I have a different ignition, but I think mine is set to OFF as well but it means the system uses the VOES. The ON position just keeps the timing locked on one curve at all times, which I don't think Hammer recommends for street use. Here's a link to a post that discusses the need for VOES. It applies to my 2000i ignition, but I believe the VOES switches on yours and mine work the same way.
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Unknow part? 1987 883
