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Isolating parasitic draw

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Old Jul 28, 2024 | 11:52 AM
  #21  
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A 2014 and up Sportster has a number of components always on when the bike is seemingly switched off. There is around 8mA being drawn all the time. If there is a siren and that has been going off the little rechargeable battery can draw around 20mA until it is recharged.

Do as Dan stated to measure what the current draw is through the negative lead to the battery. You can do that easily on your bike as that it the terminal facing you under the left cover.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2024 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Rufus13
If you hit the kill button and leave it that way there is no power to the fuel pump. However I never had the need to do that so I don't know if it would bring about the end of the world as we know it.
Maybe you should put it on a tender once a week and just ride the motorcycle until you're sure there is a real problem.
Yes - I forgot about the kill switch. Was thinking that there would be a signal - 'turn on the fuel pump', with no fuel pump present, and wondering what kind of problem that might cause.
Not like the old days where you just turn off the petcock and disconnect the fuel line.

Don't mean to get some of you flustered. Just trying to have a conversation about, and getting to know a little bit better, these new-fangled computer controlled bikes.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2024 | 01:37 PM
  #23  
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On your bike unfortunately you cannot pull a fuse to isolate the fuel pump.

In order to stop petrol under pressure spraying you, you have to disconnect the pump at its connector and then try and start the engine to depressurise the system before releasing the fuel line at the tank so it can be removed.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 03:33 AM
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The bottom line is you need the electrical diagnostic manual if you suspect there is a problem with the electronics on your bike.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 06:50 AM
  #25  
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Evidently the OP is not going to tell us what the issue is.

We are wasting our time.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 07:07 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Andy from Sandy
On your bike unfortunately you cannot pull a fuse to isolate the fuel pump.

In order to stop petrol under pressure spraying you, you have to disconnect the pump at its connector and then try and start the engine to depressurise the system before releasing the fuel line at the tank so it can be removed.
More and more, I am starting to become those old duffs, over lack of fuses and can't leave a bike off a tender. Plus how hard it is to get at the batter. I am not against improvements, I just don't see all of this as an improvement. I like the infotainment center, ABS, and such.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
Evidently the OP is not going to tell us what the issue is.

We are wasting our time.
If you read the first post: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...l#post21751320
you'll discover that I asked if there was a procedure to follow, not that there was an issue.

I was hoping to start a discussion in order to gather information, to see if there was a problem.
I'm an older guy and not familiar with modern electronics on bikes.

I did a quick draw test and will try to attach a pic.



There was an initial higher reading while something (fuel pump?) was running for a few seconds and then it settled down and stabilized at this reading.
Set on 20ma. I'm not sure what the reading means exactly, but if it's 1.7ma, that seems to low according to a lot of the posts in this thread.
I'm also not sure of the accuracy of the meter, but it seems to reads volts like my other meters.

If this is normal, then I guess I have to plan on buying a battery every year.
Yes, I do usually use a tender, but with the battery I currently have in the bike,
The manufacturer recommends not using a tender unless you won't be riding for a month or so:
https://www.renegadebattery.com/prod...tery-300-ccas/
Hope I haven't riled everybody up too much.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 04:22 PM
  #28  
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Review your link again.
It suggests a "battery spirit" brand charger that is sold by that website....just scroll a little down.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by felis
If

If this is normal, then I guess I have to plan on buying a battery every year.
Yes, I do usually use a tender, but with the battery I currently have in the bike,
The manufacturer recommends not using a tender unless you won't be riding for a month or so:

Hope I haven't riled everybody up too much.
Just people having fun talking. With having multiple bikes, there are probably times spring and fall they go over a month off tender, without issue. Though few years ago I installed pigtails so will charge more. New bikes, I am not sure how long they can go. My 2015 fob bike can definitely go over a week.

No sure why any of this means you need to buy a battery yearly.


People are just going to ask questions, I don't think anyone is riled up. relax.

Testing draws, is not exactly a young man's thing either. People have been doing that for awhile maybe even more with old vehicles.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2024 | 02:56 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by felis
If you read the first post: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...l#post21751320
you'll discover that I asked if there was a procedure to follow, not that there was an issue.

I was hoping to start a discussion in order to gather information, to see if there was a problem.
I'm an older guy and not familiar with modern electronics on bikes.

Hope I haven't riled everybody up too much.
Like so many people on this forum you were asked a question and you didn't answer it. Had you answered that question back at post #10 we would have learnt that you were just playing and not troubleshooting a real problem.

I am out of here as failure to answer simple questions when folk are trying to help that go unanswered just wastes everybody's time and effort.

So if you want to strike up a conversation reply to the posts and don't ignore them.
 
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