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As some of you may have heard prior, I have the pro-One internal fork stops on my springer and they are super delicate. I've broken two of them already. One when installing them the first time (cracked right in half) and another when I had the front wheel off the ground and the wheel flopped over (luckily the tank was not installed). Basically, the way the fork stop works is a small tab protrudes off the bearing race and fits into a groove on the bottom bearing spacer. The front end is pretty heavy for that little metal tab handle. The main issue is the races are cast metal so they are brittle.
After watching someone drop their sportster recently (the guy slipped on some oil or something backing out of a spot) I decided to put a Vulgar USA crash bar on my bike (similar to the bung king bar) but realized even if the handle bars don't hit the ground the jolt would break the fork stop and that would be the end of my gas tank. So I have been trying to figure out a stronger fork stop to use in conjunction with what's already on there. So this is what I came up with.....
Kind of my take on the old chopper chain fork stop but those had a tendancy to bunch up like a door chain lock sometimes which is not ideal. I used a cam chain for a mini bike instead. Seems pretty stout.
Last edited by OCSpringer; Aug 17, 2025 at 08:32 PM.
So, it's more of a "fork stop" than an "fork lock?" It stops the bars going too far left/right? I'm guessing you have one on the other side?
Pretty clever, unique, and well executed. That internal stop looks pretty weak to hold a Harley front end, maybe good for a Honda Rebel.
John
You're correct. I had the term fork lock in my mind for some reason. I corrected it above for clarity. The achilles heal of the springer front end is the lack of fork stops. I think it came out pretty darn good for my shadetree mechanic ways. I had to cut the fork lock off to fit the front end on.
Last edited by OCSpringer; Aug 17, 2025 at 08:30 PM.