Will Stalling kill a voltage regulator?
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Tourer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 394
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From: Brooklyn, NY
Will Stalling kill a voltage regulator?
I had this problem when i first started riding a few months ago: I dont know if this had anything to do with it but i stalled numerous times in a row and then it just wouldn't start up again it would crank but not turnover. I took it into a dealership and they said my voltage regulator was done. so they replaced it and havent had a problem since. I just installed mini apes on my bike and in the process of getting used to the new "friction zone" on the new clutch cable once again I stalled about 3-4 times(I know im Inexperienced) I believe the same thing might have happened. before i take it back into a dealership and spend more money I dont have just wondering if this is the cause or if there is some other underlying problem. Im probably just gonna take the voltage regulator off and get it tested. hopefully its the same problem and i can just replace it myself. i know this was a long question. any input would be appreciated. Thanks. BTW just finished up the winter mods Pics comin once i can get it up and running again
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,167
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From: FL & SoCal
Stalling shouldn't kill it. If its dying, there could be some other sort of electrical problem. I had a defective voltage regulator on my Sportster, which ultimately killed my battery...
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,478
Likes: 12
From: Nashville, TN
Voltage regulators and the related electrical system are sensitive animals, but stalling the bike shouldn't kill the volt reg.
It would be helpful to know the year and model of your bike.
It would be helpful to know the year and model of your bike.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,478
Likes: 12
From: Nashville, TN
I would suspect the stator. A bad stator will cause the voltage regulator to go bad. This will not necessarily show up immediately. To isolate the problem, with the bike running, check the charging system output at the battery. Bump the throttle up to around 2,000 - 3,000 RPM's. You should get a reading of 13.8 - 14.3 volts. Then disconnect where the stator plugs into the voltage regulator and check that output at the same engine speed. This should be around 120 volts.
NOTE: The electrical current at the battery is DC, the current from the stator is AC!
NOTE: The electrical current at the battery is DC, the current from the stator is AC!
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