Throttle Spring Question
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 118
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From: SoCal
Throttle Spring Question
Hi guys. I posted this Q on a different forum, but it seems more people participate here, so...
My throttle grip doesn't want to unwind when I let it go. Where is the spring mechanism that makes this happen? Is it on the carb? Inside the grip?
I haven't tried adding graphite or any other lubricants yet because the problem doesn't seem like a friction issue. Yes, the thumbwheel @ the grip is loose, so that's not binding. Is this a common occurrence and easy fix? I have the MoCo manual, but it only shows how to assemble, disassemble, etc - no trouble-shooting tips.
'92 1200, mild custom, stock motor
TIA
My throttle grip doesn't want to unwind when I let it go. Where is the spring mechanism that makes this happen? Is it on the carb? Inside the grip?
I haven't tried adding graphite or any other lubricants yet because the problem doesn't seem like a friction issue. Yes, the thumbwheel @ the grip is loose, so that's not binding. Is this a common occurrence and easy fix? I have the MoCo manual, but it only shows how to assemble, disassemble, etc - no trouble-shooting tips.
'92 1200, mild custom, stock motor
TIA
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,118
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From: Marion Ill
You need to adjust the tension on your Idle/Throttle cables.
Step 1. Turn the bars all the way to the left(Cables stretched furthest)
Step 2. Pull back the rubber boots on the cables, and loosen the nuts from the adjuster bolts
Step 3. Back both adjusters off all the way.
Step 4. Start tightening the back adjuster back(throttle line), testing every few turns. Basically at this point, what you need to do to test is every few turns, by ripping the throttle to wide open. What you are wanting to hear is the throttle blade in the carb tapping the stops in the carb. You want the throttle cable to be just tight enough to get there. Now your T Cable should be good.
Step 5. Start adjusting the idle cable back, what you are looking for here is for there to be very little play in the throttle(with the handlebars still turned all the way left. If you tighten it to much, you get will get what you are experiencing now all over, ie.. the sticky throttle.
Once you have them adjusted where you want them, just tighten the nuts back, and you should be good to go.
Hope this helps
Step 1. Turn the bars all the way to the left(Cables stretched furthest)
Step 2. Pull back the rubber boots on the cables, and loosen the nuts from the adjuster bolts
Step 3. Back both adjusters off all the way.
Step 4. Start tightening the back adjuster back(throttle line), testing every few turns. Basically at this point, what you need to do to test is every few turns, by ripping the throttle to wide open. What you are wanting to hear is the throttle blade in the carb tapping the stops in the carb. You want the throttle cable to be just tight enough to get there. Now your T Cable should be good.
Step 5. Start adjusting the idle cable back, what you are looking for here is for there to be very little play in the throttle(with the handlebars still turned all the way left. If you tighten it to much, you get will get what you are experiencing now all over, ie.. the sticky throttle.
Once you have them adjusted where you want them, just tighten the nuts back, and you should be good to go.
Hope this helps
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
Bump, and thanks for the tips, so far. In the manual pics I can see where the return spring is wound around the governor shaft. I think I'm in for a new couple of cables. I'll certainly try to adjust and lube them first, though.
One more thing: this thread comes up on a search for "throttle spring" but it doesn't show on the master list ("Sportster Models") of more than two pages of threads. What gives?
One more thing: this thread comes up on a search for "throttle spring" but it doesn't show on the master list ("Sportster Models") of more than two pages of threads. What gives?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 8
From: Wheeling, WV
Oh, and to see more than two pages, you need to alter your user CP page to show all posts, ( I think).
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,118
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From: Marion Ill
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Elite HDF Member
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From: Wheeling, WV
Then my next question would be to ask what type of grips are on the scoot....The sig says mild custom, stock motor.....My aftermarket grips are held on by three lock/set screws. I had to adjust the set screws on the throttle grip so they would not pinch the throttle sleeve to the bars, essentially the set screws of the grip were acting like a throttle lock.
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Marion Ill
Uhhhh, I didn't read it completely... Then my next question would be to ask what type of grips are on the scoot....The sig says mild custom, stock motor.....My aftermarket grips are held on by three lock/set screws. I had to adjust the set screws on the throttle grip so they would not pinch the throttle sleeve to the bars, essentially the set screws of the grip were acting like a throttle lock.
Then my next question would be to ask what type of grips are on the scoot....The sig says mild custom, stock motor.....My aftermarket grips are held on by three lock/set screws. I had to adjust the set screws on the throttle grip so they would not pinch the throttle sleeve to the bars, essentially the set screws of the grip were acting like a throttle lock.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 118
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From: SoCal
Bringing this thread back from the dead...
I've now replaced the throttle and idle cables with new (and the brake lamp switch - GRRRRRRR...) Anyway, I'm having the same, or similar problem with throttle return. I'll try to describe it as best I can:
Again, new throttle cable. When the sheath is adjusted as short as possible (for cable installation) I have no binding problems. While adjusting it (making the carb governor come to the stop bracket) it binds up more and more (in both directions, btw). When it's adjusted completely, it doesn't even want to return back to zero (idle). I can turn it back by hand, but that was the problem in the first place with the other cable(s).
I lubed the grip and handle bar, and where the grip turns/slides in the housing - and still the same binding, but only when the sheath is stretched tighter so I have to leave it loose. Thumb screw "cruise control" is completely let out. So where it sits now is that the carb governor is almost half an inch away from the WOT stop bracket. But it rolls and returns like it should.
Even as I write this, I'm thinking my problem is inside the grip/housing. Your thoughts? Ideas?
I've now replaced the throttle and idle cables with new (and the brake lamp switch - GRRRRRRR...) Anyway, I'm having the same, or similar problem with throttle return. I'll try to describe it as best I can:
Again, new throttle cable. When the sheath is adjusted as short as possible (for cable installation) I have no binding problems. While adjusting it (making the carb governor come to the stop bracket) it binds up more and more (in both directions, btw). When it's adjusted completely, it doesn't even want to return back to zero (idle). I can turn it back by hand, but that was the problem in the first place with the other cable(s).
I lubed the grip and handle bar, and where the grip turns/slides in the housing - and still the same binding, but only when the sheath is stretched tighter so I have to leave it loose. Thumb screw "cruise control" is completely let out. So where it sits now is that the carb governor is almost half an inch away from the WOT stop bracket. But it rolls and returns like it should.
Even as I write this, I'm thinking my problem is inside the grip/housing. Your thoughts? Ideas?