Brake Light Problem
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,167
Likes: 20
From: NE Pennsylvania
Brake Light Problem
Well today has not been a good day...Got the news at work that I'm effected by a layoff effective Thursday. We have very few orders to fill in July and we're having on a "two week temporary" layoff that includes about 11 people.
Been with the company for 11 years and was the operations manager in March, now I'm a Quality Engineer making $7k less. After Wednesday, I might be finished there. We've had other temporary layoffs become permanent. But I digress... Sorry for venting.
Went out to the shed to work on some projects and get my mind off the recent developments. The neighbor stopped by to talk about the crotch rocket he just picked up. While we were BSing, I attempted to show him the HD brake light/turn signal mod on my '04 XLC.
Turned on the key and pressed the rear brake - nothing. Pulled the front lever - nothing. What the F?!!??!! The turn signals work and the taillight works, but none of the brake lights work.
So I took out the taillight bulb, both filaments are intact. I measured them with a meter and powered it up with a power supply. Both filaments are working.
I then pulled off the seat and removed the rear brake light/turn signal module to eliminate it as a problem. Still nothing. Pulled off the battery side cover and checked the fuses. Besides some oxidization (which I cleaned) they were all good.
What do you think could be causing this problem?? Is the relay in the fuse box part of the brake light circuit? I haven't had the time to do a forum search so I thought I'd just ask. It's got to be something common to both the front and rear brake systems.
Thanks in advance... Hope I can get this fixed quick. Now I have some time off and a chance to ride, but I don't want to ride without brake lights!!!
Been with the company for 11 years and was the operations manager in March, now I'm a Quality Engineer making $7k less. After Wednesday, I might be finished there. We've had other temporary layoffs become permanent. But I digress... Sorry for venting.
Went out to the shed to work on some projects and get my mind off the recent developments. The neighbor stopped by to talk about the crotch rocket he just picked up. While we were BSing, I attempted to show him the HD brake light/turn signal mod on my '04 XLC.
Turned on the key and pressed the rear brake - nothing. Pulled the front lever - nothing. What the F?!!??!! The turn signals work and the taillight works, but none of the brake lights work.
So I took out the taillight bulb, both filaments are intact. I measured them with a meter and powered it up with a power supply. Both filaments are working.
I then pulled off the seat and removed the rear brake light/turn signal module to eliminate it as a problem. Still nothing. Pulled off the battery side cover and checked the fuses. Besides some oxidization (which I cleaned) they were all good.
What do you think could be causing this problem?? Is the relay in the fuse box part of the brake light circuit? I haven't had the time to do a forum search so I thought I'd just ask. It's got to be something common to both the front and rear brake systems.
Thanks in advance... Hope I can get this fixed quick. Now I have some time off and a chance to ride, but I don't want to ride without brake lights!!!
Last edited by gilmour68; Jun 29, 2009 at 09:29 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,167
Likes: 20
From: NE Pennsylvania
The key was fully on and I even started the bike once to try it. No brake lights. I was looking thru the Clymer manual and learned that the rear brake switch apparently controls both the front and rear brake lights. The front is somehow connected via a wire and the rear is run by hydraulic pressure.
The test is to remove the wires from the light and check for continuity when the rear brake pedal is depressed. I got a reading of 150 ohms, not exactly a good connection.
So I decided to short the terminals on the switch together with the key on to simulate a braking situation to see what would happen.
Sure enough the brake lights lit right up. Guess the friggin' rear brake switch went bad. Now I just have to see if the dealer has one in stock and hope it fixes the problem.
The test is to remove the wires from the light and check for continuity when the rear brake pedal is depressed. I got a reading of 150 ohms, not exactly a good connection.
So I decided to short the terminals on the switch together with the key on to simulate a braking situation to see what would happen.
Sure enough the brake lights lit right up. Guess the friggin' rear brake switch went bad. Now I just have to see if the dealer has one in stock and hope it fixes the problem.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,478
Likes: 12
From: Nashville, TN
I would check the connector where the brake light/tail light mod plugs in. I don't know if you did that install yourself, or not. There is a splice and pin connector modification that is required with that accessory. Sounds like something may have come loose there.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
From: The Suncoast (FLA)
Check the front switch too. Make certain it is installed correctly.
Sympathetic regards on losing the job. Happened to me too. Nearly 10 years with the company and now done in August. Oh well! Just an "inconvenience".
Sympathetic regards on losing the job. Happened to me too. Nearly 10 years with the company and now done in August. Oh well! Just an "inconvenience".
Last edited by Sundog; Jun 30, 2009 at 12:07 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, MA
Similar problem but maybe different. but solved
I took the tins off and sent them off to my bud who does painting. He did a great job. Looked great. Did a nice coating of antichip on the underside.
But when I wired up the rear fender and tested the lights....nothing.
No blinkers, no brake light.
Then it dawned on me. Harleys must be using the inside of the fender as a common ground.
Mine was all painted in really thick paint. Practically rubber coated on the inside. So I first shaved and then sanded the points where the bolts went in and contacted the frame. Vio'La!
So my point is that maybe you have a poor ground either due to rust or some other thing you may have done during your mod where your brake light housing bolts connect to the frame.
But when I wired up the rear fender and tested the lights....nothing.
No blinkers, no brake light.
Then it dawned on me. Harleys must be using the inside of the fender as a common ground.
Mine was all painted in really thick paint. Practically rubber coated on the inside. So I first shaved and then sanded the points where the bolts went in and contacted the frame. Vio'La!
So my point is that maybe you have a poor ground either due to rust or some other thing you may have done during your mod where your brake light housing bolts connect to the frame.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,167
Likes: 20
From: NE Pennsylvania
Turns out that both switches apparently went bad. I replaced the rear switch and the lights work only on the rear brake right now. I thought it was strange that both switches went at the same time, but it's possible that they didn't. One may have failed before the other, I just didn't know it.
Last week the lights were working based on what some co-workers told me. So apparently at least one switch was working properly at the time. It must have failed over the past few days.
Since I've been rear ended several times over the past few years, I think I'll do some basic safety checks before I leave home next time. I'm paranoid about traffic behind me (after being struck several times over the past year) and I tend to flash my brake lights (usually using the front lever) to alert drivers that I'm slowing. So I will be replacing the front switch soon.
In the meantime I'm back on the road and I guess I'll have to make sure I use the rear brake to signal the traffic following me.
Last week the lights were working based on what some co-workers told me. So apparently at least one switch was working properly at the time. It must have failed over the past few days.
Since I've been rear ended several times over the past few years, I think I'll do some basic safety checks before I leave home next time. I'm paranoid about traffic behind me (after being struck several times over the past year) and I tend to flash my brake lights (usually using the front lever) to alert drivers that I'm slowing. So I will be replacing the front switch soon.
In the meantime I'm back on the road and I guess I'll have to make sure I use the rear brake to signal the traffic following me.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
The Best and Worst Harley-Davidson Moves of 2025
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,167
Likes: 20
From: NE Pennsylvania
Sporty Pig I did install the module myself and it had worked great up until now. I checked the module by removing it from the circuit when I first discovered the problem. The brake light still did not work. There was no splicing of any wires with this mod - it was a simple "plug and play", no soldering or crimping involved...Fortunately the switches are the problem and I'm back on the road again!!
Last edited by gilmour68; Jun 30, 2009 at 09:36 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
I had some odd brake light issues recently as well. I found that my front brake (hand) lever only kicked the brake light on while the bike was running. Maybe it's an electrical power thing. Anyway, I replaced both switches and all works according to plan.
Just check your handbrake with the bike running before you buy another switch for it. They're a PITA to install without breaking something else.
Just check your handbrake with the bike running before you buy another switch for it. They're a PITA to install without breaking something else.