First oil change
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 306
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
Ok I'm making a list of stuff to get since I've never done this before, few questions:
1. In my owners manual it has 20w-50 and 10w-40. It says the 20w-50 (which is in my bike now) is good for 40*F air temperature and above. The 10w-40 is said to be better for starts in temps of below 50*F. Should I switch to 10w-40 now that fall/winter is coming since I ride anytime its above freezing or does that really not make much of a difference?
2. There is no filter for the transmission oil correct?
3. 3 quarts for the oil, 1 quart for the transmission correct?
1. In my owners manual it has 20w-50 and 10w-40. It says the 20w-50 (which is in my bike now) is good for 40*F air temperature and above. The 10w-40 is said to be better for starts in temps of below 50*F. Should I switch to 10w-40 now that fall/winter is coming since I ride anytime its above freezing or does that really not make much of a difference?
2. There is no filter for the transmission oil correct?
3. 3 quarts for the oil, 1 quart for the transmission correct?
Items 2 & 3 are correct.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 8
From: Wheeling, WV
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 306
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
+1 - Get the filter from the dealer, it's inexpensive enough and good quality. If you have ever cut open oil filters, you'd know Fram filters are junk, on top of being the wrong micron size.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 306
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
NAPA / WIX are real good filters and I use them on my cages. The problem with putting them on the Sporty is that I have never been able to find one that's a XREF for the Sporty filter that lists the micron spec.
Same thing applies to K&N filters, excellent quality, wrong micron size.
Same thing applies to K&N filters, excellent quality, wrong micron size.
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 885
Likes: 3
From: Ledyard, CT
I'm having a hard time actually finding the oils to do this. I went to pep boys, walmart, aid auto. Pep boys only had 2 quarts of 20w-50 left so I didn't get it, and the others didn't have any. No place had any 75w-90 gear oil.
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 885
Likes: 3
From: Ledyard, CT
Finally got the stuff and time to do the engine and transmission oil changes. One thing I'm confused about is with the transmission oil. The steps in the factory service manual say to remove the drain plug, then remove the clutch inspection cover (is this the "derby" cover? if so why is it called that?), then fill it up and put the cover back on. My question is, how is the transmission oil going to stay in the transmission when the cover is off? The pictures and descriptions don't really clarify.
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 885
Likes: 3
From: Ledyard, CT
Ok now I also just read something that said I could pour the gear oil through the primary chain inspection cover, is that fine?
EDIT: Another thing. Should I loc-tite every screw I come in contact with? I may as well check the primary chain while I'm in it. What are some symptoms that may show signs of a chain that needs adjusting?
EDIT: Another thing. Should I loc-tite every screw I come in contact with? I may as well check the primary chain while I'm in it. What are some symptoms that may show signs of a chain that needs adjusting?
Last edited by ripto; Sep 18, 2009 at 08:56 PM.