Kick Stand problems
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,614
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From: Toms River, NJ
Kick Stand problems
I just put in the Burly Slammer kit on my 2004 1200 Custom. I did it for my wife and it worked out. The only problem is the bike now stands straight up on the kick stand. I really don't want to spend another 70.00 for a Licks shorter stand. Has anyone come up with a mod or a cheaper way to go ??? Thanks in advance
Be Safe JIM
Be Safe JIM
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,525
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From: Wheeling, WV
I had to throw a shorter stand on mine when I went with the Lick's 10" short shocks. I used one from a "Hugger" or a "Low" model as they are refered to now-a-days. I think you can order shorter ones through JPCycles as well. Measure your stand from pivot to plate and then go measure one on a "Low" model to see if they're different. 
Oh, and I think I got mine on Ebay for like $10 or $15 since it was used.
Oh, and I think I got mine on Ebay for like $10 or $15 since it was used.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,007
Likes: 126
From: Manassas, VA
Would you describe your shortening method, please? Do you cut and weld in a "sleeve" union, or bend them?
I measure to see how much shorter it needs to be, mark off that "chunk" in the middle, with a straight edge I draw a line along the length of the kick stand so I can insure I weld it back together the same way once I cut out the chunk.
Once I cut out the section I drill down the shaft of both remaining pieces. Usually just the length of the bit...2" or so. Drilling the kickstand before I weld it back together does 2 things. First, it lets me internally sleeve the 2 ends to spread out the weight of the bike up & down the kickstand instead of having it right on the weld. and second, it helps with the heat penetration because the new hole turns the solid stock kickstand in to a tube and that's much easier to gauge.
Then I bevel each end to give myself a "V" to weld when I slide the 2 ends together. Also for better penetration, more surface to be welded and lets me smooth the weld so that it isn't visible.
If the holes I drilled are 2" (each), I'll cut a piece of round stock 4" long to slide in as a pin, slide the other end over the round stock until the 2 pieces are butted together, index them to the line I drew earlier, weld it up, grind it smooth, sandblast it then powdercoat.
Sounds complicated but it really only takes about an hour or so start to finish.
Once I cut out the section I drill down the shaft of both remaining pieces. Usually just the length of the bit...2" or so. Drilling the kickstand before I weld it back together does 2 things. First, it lets me internally sleeve the 2 ends to spread out the weight of the bike up & down the kickstand instead of having it right on the weld. and second, it helps with the heat penetration because the new hole turns the solid stock kickstand in to a tube and that's much easier to gauge.
Then I bevel each end to give myself a "V" to weld when I slide the 2 ends together. Also for better penetration, more surface to be welded and lets me smooth the weld so that it isn't visible.
If the holes I drilled are 2" (each), I'll cut a piece of round stock 4" long to slide in as a pin, slide the other end over the round stock until the 2 pieces are butted together, index them to the line I drew earlier, weld it up, grind it smooth, sandblast it then powdercoat.
Sounds complicated but it really only takes about an hour or so start to finish.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,007
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From: Manassas, VA
Doesn't sound too bad. Your description of your process is excellent. I know exactly what you're talking about. I hadn't thought about the internal pin. After the cutting, I was considering an external sleeve to distribute the load. Thanks-a-million for the info. The dowel makes for a much better finished product, I'm sure.
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