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effing stator

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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 06:11 PM
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Default effing stator

I planned to take off after work tomorrow and cruise over to Jackson hole, spend a day or two, but I had to push start my bike this morning. Battery checks out fine, so it is probably the stator or the voltage regulator.

I read some stator threads, and have pretty much decided to go with the cycle electric CE-9100 or the ACCEL. I'm definitely not going with the Harley OEM part.

Can you guys that have done this chime in and let me know if you have had problems with those parts? Also, is there a way to check the voltage regulator? If it is just that, it would be a lot faster fix.

Thanks for your help.

2004 xl883
 

Last edited by tjae; Aug 11, 2011 at 08:40 PM. Reason: You probably need my bike info to help out.
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 06:43 PM
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My stator grounded out. Had it fixed at the dealer. $450. 3 hours labor @ $85 per hour plus parts.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 07:16 PM
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Hopefully cHarley will chime in. He has those numbers memorized. Its odd you didn't see where he gave those numbers in other posts.

But you will have to put your year bike.

Id go back out to the shop for the book, but mines a ridged mount. Plus I'm a lil heat whooped from wrenching a KZR1000 back together.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 07:38 PM
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I've changed out voltage regulators & stators before but not on harleys ...I'm sure the process is basically the same.

The first thing you need to do is get your bike started and rev it up to about 2500rpm and then using a meter measure the voltage at the battery. Should read about 14 volts DC. If you're are getting 14 volts then you charging system is probably not the issue. BTW, you said the battery tested good...a good battery should measure 12.6~12.8 volts with ignition off, was that the case?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by xFreebirdx
Hopefully cHarley will chime in. He has those numbers memorized. Its odd you didn't see where he gave those numbers in other posts.

But you will have to put your year bike.

Id go back out to the shop for the book, but mines a ridged mount. Plus I'm a lil heat whooped from wrenching a KZR1000 back together.

Found cHarley's post. Pretty sure it is the Stator. a Local indy has the CE-9100 for $100. I can get some cheaper on eBay, but you guys have said good things about cycle electric, so I'm going with them.

I saw that you put in a CE Stator. Good results? I think you changed out the regulator too?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeallenbrown
I've changed out voltage regulators & stators before but not on harleys ...I'm sure the process is basically the same.

The first thing you need to do is get your bike started and rev it up to about 2500rpm and then using a meter measure the voltage at the battery. Should read about 14 volts DC. If you're are getting 14 volts then you charging system is probably not the issue. BTW, you said the battery tested good...a good battery should measure 12.6~12.8 volts with ignition off, was that the case?
I still had the stock batter in from 2004, so I changed it out last week. It was measuring on the low side, but the new one is perfect.

I helped my brother changed the stator on his Vulcan900 a couple of weeks ago. Reading through the service manual, it seems mine is going to be quite a bit more complicated. We will see when I get the primary cover torn off.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 11:36 PM
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Alright. A local indy is holding a CE-9100 stator for me until morning. I have a question though... The manual says I need to pull the clutch assembly. I can't figure out why I need to do that. This write up

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...ghlight=stator

the clutch assembly wasn't pulled. I am leaning that way. What do you think?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 04:15 AM
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He missed typing it up. The cluth pack, primary chain and crank sprocket have to come off together and go on together....

Yes my CE set is still charging strong.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 07:05 AM
  #9  
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[quote=xFreebirdx;8685936]He missed typing it up. The cluth pack, primary chain and crank sprocket have to come off together and go on together....

Well that sucks. I was hoping to not get into the clutch. Stay tuned. I might be posting later this weekend for some help.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 07:29 AM
  #10  
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You don't disassemble the clutch itself. You remove the retaining/adjustment assembly and then remove the clutch basket as a whole.

 
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