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Speedo relocation to forks

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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 09:05 AM
  #11  
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No problem bud
 
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 12:39 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Rog48
Summit racing Part #48002 and 3209. 46 bucks, a lot of head stratching and grinding
I like the look of your installation and have ordered the same parts. Question - What did you need to grind down? Thx
 
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 02:12 PM
  #13  
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I checked in to his setup, and you'd need to grind the bracket that fits on the fork. The opening is a few mm's too small for the fork. Looked good tho. I went with the front tank bolt method, as my front directionals are on the forks, and I didn't want to clutter that area up. Good luck to you!
 
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by nc883
I checked in to his setup, and you'd need to grind the bracket that fits on the fork. The opening is a few mm's too small for the fork. Looked good tho. I went with the front tank bolt method, as my front directionals are on the forks, and I didn't want to clutter that area up. Good luck to you!
Cool / Thx
 
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 02:37 PM
  #15  
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I used the Autometer clamp and fork mount and didn't have to grind a thing off or do any fitting. It fit perfectly out of the box like it was made for it. I even had it mounted OVER the old inspection sticker for a while without issue.

I have the gauge sitting in the clamp on the same plane as the pivot, slid down the fork so that there is a 2" gap from top tree to top of fork clamp, then it is pivoted inward on the fork as far as I could go and still tighten the hardware. The pivot itself isn't offset from the fork clamp at all, but tilted toward me so that it the face is ideal for where my eyes hit. All I can see from the seat is 10-120 and have to lean up / out a bit to see my trip meter.

I like Joker's stuff, but this one was a little too expensive for me and I went with their 900 series top clamp anyway so a ziptied dummy light bar was the perfect solution.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 02:47 PM
  #16  
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Thanks for that info regarding the clamp install. Only reason I'm doing this is to prove true mileage should I ever sell the bike. I eliminated my idiot lights during the rebuild, so need to mess with them.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 02:50 PM
  #17  
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NP. I definitely wouldn't pay for the Joker part then, that's where all the cost is. LOVE the Autometer solution, but I did have to powder coat the bracket. That cheap silver just drove me nuts and even more so now that I got mine done flat black. Also sprayed the housing with black grill paint and sealed the backside of the speedo trim ring.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Jackal
NP. I definitely wouldn't pay for the Joker part then, that's where all the cost is. LOVE the Autometer solution, but I did have to powder coat the bracket. That cheap silver just drove me nuts and even more so now that I got mine done flat black. Also sprayed the housing with black grill paint and sealed the backside of the speedo trim ring.
Same here! I painted mine black before I installed it too! The silver was way too cheesy.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 03:02 PM
  #19  
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The body of my speedometer is white. So you painted that black ... correct?
 
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 03:08 PM
  #20  
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No, I painted the Autometer gauge pod black. I cut the circular part of my speedo/indicator mount off, filed it down to be perfectly smooth, filed down the indicator part to make it smaller/shorter, painted both of them, bolted the indicator section back down to the upper clamp, slid the round part of the mount into the Autometer clamp (cannot use the rubber that came with it), and clamped the rascal down. Slid the white part of my speedo back into the round mount on the tank bolt/clamp setup, lengthened my wires 8 inches or so, and put the bottom cover back on. Can see all of the speedo up to 100, including the odometer. I did use a 3/4" spacer to push it out away from the tank too.
 
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