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Tranny oil change and engine oil

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Old May 6, 2012 | 03:58 PM
  #11  
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Harryinny
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Heres a question, Want to use Royal Purple V-Max in the bike, Dino oil is horrid. So, i drain the oil where the tube is, then drain the primary right? Then, Fill oil in the oil fill with 2.8 quarts, then, I take off the primary cover and fill it with the same oil (Royal Purple V-Max 20/50) Fill till its at the bottom of the of the spring(1 Quart)?. I fill it while the bikes straight?
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 04:45 PM
  #12  
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Superfly3176
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Originally Posted by fox4
As it has been said earlier do not use gear oil in the primary/transmission on a Sportster. It will strip the varnish off the stator (alternator for our bikes) and then you will have a lot of work ahead of you.

The HD Formula+ is pretty much the only oil that is specifically made for the Sportster shared primary and transmission. It is the only thing I will use there. I run Mobile 1 V-twin 20w50 in the engine.

Really?

Ut oh think I have Mobil 1 75w90 in my transmission now.
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 04:54 PM
  #13  
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edgeofinsanity
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I use the HD Formula+ in the transmission, but I've also heard of people using Mobile1 Vtwin 20w50 in the transmission with good results too.

The engine oil drains from a rubber tube down under the bike. It's a black hose that hangs down below the the frame itself. It has a plastic plug held in by a hose clamp. Use a screwdriver to loosen (open) the clamp and pull the plastic plug out and the oil will drain out. I usually change it warm by letting it sit for 15 minutes or so after a warm up ride. You can drain and fill it while it's on the stand.

The transmission drains out of a plug under the transmission housing, you can't miss it. It takes exactly one bottle so you don't have to worry about filling it to a certain level. I just fill mine using a funnel through the chain inspection cover (little rectangular cover held in by two screws). You can fill it through the derby cover also, but why bother with the mess unless you are also doing a clutch adjustment.

When you drain the trans fluid, let it drain until it stops flowing, then stand the bike up off the stand to get the rest out.
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 04:54 PM
  #14  
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Von_Zipper
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From: Saint Amant, Acadiana
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Yep, all reports of killed stator involve Mobil 1 gear oil. BTW, gear oil 80W is about same viscosity as motor oil 20W-50.
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 05:07 PM
  #15  
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Superfly3176
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Originally Posted by Von_Zipper
Yep, all reports of killed stator involve Mobil 1 gear oil. BTW, gear oil 80W is about same viscosity as motor oil 20W-50.
But the vtwin 20w50 is supposed to be okay for it? I'm gonna have to run to the store tomorrow I think. Have about 1k-1500miles on the gear oil hope I'm okay.
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 06:51 PM
  #16  
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Harryinny
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Originally Posted by edgeofinsanity
I use the HD Formula+ in the transmission, but I've also heard of people using Mobile1 Vtwin 20w50 in the transmission with good results too.

The engine oil drains from a rubber tube down under the bike. It's a black hose that hangs down below the the frame itself. It has a plastic plug held in by a hose clamp. Use a screwdriver to loosen (open) the clamp and pull the plastic plug out and the oil will drain out. I usually change it warm by letting it sit for 15 minutes or so after a warm up ride. You can drain and fill it while it's on the stand.

The transmission drains out of a plug under the transmission housing, you can't miss it. It takes exactly one bottle so you don't have to worry about filling it to a certain level. I just fill mine using a funnel through the chain inspection cover (little rectangular cover held in by two screws). You can fill it through the derby cover also, but why bother with the mess unless you are also doing a clutch adjustment.

When you drain the trans fluid, let it drain until it stops flowing, then stand the bike up off the stand to get the rest out.

Thank you for the reply. While im there might as well do a clutch adjustment, bike seems to have a stutter while gearing up, like wind shear, like a slight bucking feeling. Cant hurt, Used bikes bug me, ya never know if the pipe work was done with a retune on the chip.
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 06:58 PM
  #17  
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John_K
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From: Windsor Ontario
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Lucas 20w50 in the engine and Amsoli ATF in the primary.
Works for me.
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 10:06 PM
  #18  
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edgeofinsanity
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From: Clinton IA
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Originally Posted by Harryinny
Thank you for the reply. While im there might as well do a clutch adjustment, bike seems to have a stutter while gearing up, like wind shear, like a slight bucking feeling. Cant hurt, Used bikes bug me, ya never know if the pipe work was done with a retune on the chip.
Yeah, I bought mine used from a private seller, who was selling it for his son who was deployed and didn't have a lot of details... I ended up doing the 5k service stuff the day after I bought it, even though the bike only had 3000 miles on it.

On the clutch adjustment... I did mine when I put it away last year for the Winter, just did the adjustment according to the service manual, and it did make a difference I could feel right away. It's a really quick and easy to do job if you have not done it before.
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 11:41 PM
  #19  
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rjm729
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The primary oil needs to be approved for wet clutches. I found this out the hard way.
 
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