Clutch pull
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Stage III
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Largo, fl
Clutch pull
Relatively new owner of 2004 1200C. Beginning to notice some pull when stopped in first with clutch pulled in full. Took off housing cover and backed adjustment screw all the way to left then 1/4 turn to right and reassembled. Adjusted cable to about 1/8" play in clutch lever...still feel occasional pull. Ride in Florida and its super hot...do I need more adjustment for plate expansion?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,188
Likes: 24
From: New Hampshire
you only want to go until you feel resistance not all the way to the left(counter clockwise) so it is tight. when you start to feel resistance back off to right(clockwise) 1/4 turn. get a manual if you don't have one.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 306
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
In relation to the lever vs handlebar, the 1/2 turn out moves the friction zone further away from the handlebar. This adjustment is often done by riders that spend a lot of time in the friction zone, parade riders, motor cops, etc, as it requires less lever pull to get into the friction zone.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,299
Likes: 6,324
From: Honah Lee
Do this cold. Behind cover, after you make sure all clearance is gone then make sure you are at bottom (zero clearance) by screwing the screw in till in touches and another turn in to deburr threads and then back out and back in till it touches, back out 1/4 turn and squeeze the lever slightly, and back in and you will fill it bottom quicker and now let off the lever and bottom screw. Do this a few time till you get the fill of really were you have it at no clearance. Now back out 1/4 turn. The less you back out the more the lever has to break the gap between the drive and driven plates. However, when it gets hot, you need the cold 1/4 turn to insure clutch throw-out bearing does not spin or break the clutch slightly and cause it to slip under load. Now lock it down and adjust the cable at grip to just a match thickness of play or so checking with bars locked at both ends of travel. This way you will get all the usable travel to make sure dive and driven clutch plates are apart. Make sure you oil level is correct. Little too much in there will make the clutch work just like an automatic transmission and cause that clunk going in first or a little drag. It's interesting that your backoff is 1/3 of what my Softail requires. Guess because my pushrod come all way thru from the other side and can grow more from the heat. Be sure your back off and lever play is to the manual.
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