Oil Problems???
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
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From: Traverse City, Michigan
Oil Problems???
I'm new to the forum and hope that I'm posting this in the right section. I have a 05 1200 sportster that I'm having a problem with. I changed oil & filter this spring first thing and was thinking of selling it so I took it to a dealer about 50 miles from my house who said he would sell it for me, well after 2 months he hadn't sold it so I went and picked it up drove it back home and when I got there the whole side of the bike was covered in oil, checked the oil and the tank is full but smells like gas, called the guy and asked what they did to the bike, was told only thing they did was to change the plugs because they were fouled. I think they didn't turn the petcock off the entire time they had it, so I drain the oil, change the filter and take it out for a test ride went about 30 miles and all seems well. Next day rode into town about 15 miles and get off the bike and there's oil all over the side again so I take it back home dig out my service manual to see what I can find, only thing that made sense was the petcock was bad so I went and picked up a new one and put in today and changed the oil & filter again. Started the bike just long enough for the oil to fill the filter and get up to pressure and shut it down, it ran for less than a minute, and in that time it turned the oil black. I started it one more time with the dip stick out and with in a minute the oil level came up to the point where it would have started running out of the top of the oil tank if I hadn't shut it down. Anyone have an idea as to what could be wrong, I've never had any problems with this bike before I took it to this dealer, and don't want to think they did something to it. But I don't know what to look for next.
Thanks for any and all ideas
Bob
Thanks for any and all ideas
Bob
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 5
From: Bellville, Tx
Sounds like "sumping" to me. If the check valve is leaking (commonly due to foreign material on the ball). If it sits like that for a while, the crankcase will fill with oil. The dealer probably topped it off. When you started up the pump sucked the cases dry like it is supposed to, but all that oil plus the topped off quantity tries to fit in the oil tank. Check and see if the oil is being blown out the breather. If so, you need to pull the ball and clean it and the seat. I use a suture clamp on the main oil line from the tank to stop the oil flow while I work on the ball. Hope this helps.
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
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From: Traverse City, Michigan
Don't know how it could be over filled, I've changed oil 3 times now. Last time I drained it for at least 5 hours and only put 3 quarts back in it. I agree it acts like it's overfilled but I know it's not.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 128
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From: Missoula,Montana
Try putting in only 2 quarts and starting it and see what it does.If you are filling it all the way to the top line on the dipstick that's way too much oil.Your oil level should be anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 way up the dipstick.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
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From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
Before doing an oil change, the motor needs to be warmed. This not only lets the oil drain easier, it gets any oil that has sumped into the crankcase back into the oil tank. Draining your oil only drains what's in the tank, so if there's oil sitting in the crankcase you'll wind up over filled.
Your Owners Manual lists the motor oil quantity as 3.6 quarts. That quantity only applies to factory new, dry, motor. The correct amount of refill oil following an oil change is ~2.75 quarts total.
When checking your oil level on the dipstick, it should be done with the motor hot and bike on the jiffy stand.
A reading on the dipstick that's half way between the Add and Full marks is Full. A higher level than that will almost always cause oil to be puked from the breathers.
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Traverse City, Michigan
Sounds like "sumping" to me. If the check valve is leaking (commonly due to foreign material on the ball). If it sits like that for a while, the crankcase will fill with oil. The dealer probably topped it off. When you started up the pump sucked the cases dry like it is supposed to, but all that oil plus the topped off quantity tries to fit in the oil tank. Check and see if the oil is being blown out the breather. If so, you need to pull the ball and clean it and the seat. I use a suture clamp on the main oil line from the tank to stop the oil flow while I work on the ball. Hope this helps.
Is the check-valve your talking about the one in the filter housing and if so how do you get it out? That's the only one I see in the manual and it doesn't talk about how to get it out and clean it.
Is the check-valve your talking about the one in the filter housing and if so how do you get it out? That's the only one I see in the manual and it doesn't talk about how to get it out and clean it.
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
Before you go tearing things apart, understand that the check-valve is a metal ball to metal seat valve. It's not something that typically provides an absolute seal and it's "normal" for it to allow some oil seepage into the crankcase over time. Almost all Harley's will sump some oil when they sit for a period of time.
If your oil level is midway on the dipstick when you park it at night, and has none showing on the dipstick the next morning, that should be check out.
If your oil level is midway on the dipstick when you park it at night, and has none showing on the dipstick the next morning, that should be check out.
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Traverse City, Michigan
There are some things not mention in you post, so I'll go over them just in-case.
Before doing an oil change, the motor needs to be warmed. This not only lets the oil drain easier, it gets any oil that has sumped into the crankcase back into the oil tank. Draining your oil only drains what's in the tank, so if there's oil sitting in the crankcase you'll wind up over filled.
Your Owners Manual lists the motor oil quantity as 3.6 quarts. That quantity only applies to factory new, dry, motor. The correct amount of refill oil following an oil change is ~2.75 quarts total.
When checking your oil level on the dipstick, it should be done with the motor hot and bike on the jiffy stand.
A reading on the dipstick that's half way between the Add and Full marks is Full. A higher level than that will almost always cause oil to be puked from the breathers.
Before doing an oil change, the motor needs to be warmed. This not only lets the oil drain easier, it gets any oil that has sumped into the crankcase back into the oil tank. Draining your oil only drains what's in the tank, so if there's oil sitting in the crankcase you'll wind up over filled.
Your Owners Manual lists the motor oil quantity as 3.6 quarts. That quantity only applies to factory new, dry, motor. The correct amount of refill oil following an oil change is ~2.75 quarts total.
When checking your oil level on the dipstick, it should be done with the motor hot and bike on the jiffy stand.
A reading on the dipstick that's half way between the Add and Full marks is Full. A higher level than that will almost always cause oil to be puked from the breathers.
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Traverse City, Michigan
Went out this afternoon and took a little over a quart out of it, warmed it up and checked and set to about a quarter inch below the full mark while hot. So off for a little test ride, 120 miles later it hasn't puked any oil 
and all seems well. We'll see where the oil level is in the morning.
Thanks again for all the help
Bob
and all seems well. We'll see where the oil level is in the morning.Thanks again for all the help
Bob