stator test
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From: OuterBanks
stator test
Hello! Maybe someone can help me.I got a 99' sportster and the book says the resistance between the 2 stator wires should be .2 to .4 and im getting a reading of .8 to 1.0 but .9 mostly. Is this enough to warrent a bad stator? Is that enough resistance to burn/fry the stator/rr connetor? The other test dosnt show any resistance so its not grounding out i dont think.Im gonna redo the tests on the r/r but it was seemed fine.Plz if anyone can help chime in. thx:killerjob:
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From: OuterBanks
ok so i just did the voltage test while the bike was running and the meter read zero,nothing at all(does that sound right?). I put my hands on the ends of the wires and nothing.thought i would at least get get poped alittle.wow i guess theres my proublem.now i wonder if i killed the r/r or if the r/r died and thats why the stator is bad.i dont know.i just bought the bike. battery died real fast..like 15 secs with lights on so i charged it ,took a 45 mile ride and it died on that.so i bought i new battery ,replaced it and within 30 miles the connector started smoking and melted. any thoughts? suggetions on what your next move would be...right now im thinking i have to replace stator for my first move.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: St. Catharines, Ontario
I'll assume you were attached to the output leads of the stator and the bike was running at about 1500 RPM. if you had no A.C. volts, then the stator coils are open (not likely as you measured the resistance "0.9 ohms" or the magnets have all flown out of the rotor.
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From: OuterBanks
TY good catch i had it on d/c. now im a little confused.I went and borrowed a diff tester froma friend and i got diff readings.his which is old gave me .3 which is right smake dab in the middle of specs where my brand new 36$ ace one is .8 That being said i switched my volts meter to a/c and got 40 volts with barley puliing down the throttle.the book says 2000rpm 38/52 volts but i dont have a rpm meter so i reved it to 40 volts and it wasnt to much gas.Im guessing it was right around 2000 rpm or so. also i opened the inspection cover and i didnt smell any burnt electronics,especially if its supose to be overwhelming.I dont know i guess i need a light tester.i dont see the diffence in a light tester and a volts meter but im gonna go get one anyways and try to test the regulator again.I wonder if the brand new battery had something to do with this,it was one of them walmart fill it up yourself deals and i could have charged it incorectly.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
A "light tester" is NOT what you want when checking the battery or charging system, you need to be able to read 1/10ths of a volt.
A fully charged battery should measure 12.7 - 12.8 volts. 12.0 volts is an almost dead battery.
It sounds like your stator is working OK, so now your down to the regulator or battery. What connector started smoking and melted? A battery cable connection that's not tight will get hot and can "melt" the battery terminal.
A fully charged battery should measure 12.7 - 12.8 volts. 12.0 volts is an almost dead battery.
It sounds like your stator is working OK, so now your down to the regulator or battery. What connector started smoking and melted? A battery cable connection that's not tight will get hot and can "melt" the battery terminal.
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From: OuterBanks
right ..the light tester is for the regulator,touch it to a ground and the regulator wires and it should not light up and it dosnt.I cant get any bad readings on the regulator and i could put the old battery back in but im afraid if it wasnt a lose connection what is gonna burn up next?The connector that burnt up/smoking was the stator/reg connector.
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