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So I installed a new higher output battery - 310cc; she fired right up on first start (sweet!), then after 10 seconds, turned her off, then on again... Damn! The hesitation is there.
I took her around for a few miles to get gas; after starting her, check engine and battery light come on for a few minutes while at a stop light. This was the initial reason why I thought I needed to replace my 3+ year battery.
I'm thinking the stator, which was replaced 3 years ago is going bad... This would be my 3rd stator in 25K miles, if I get it replaced. I think they just put the stock HD stator on last time. Geeeezzzz...... Come on Harley, I just noticed the dripping fluid by the tranny's 2nd bolt.
I purchased this battery due to the higher Advertised 310CCA. To my dismay - I found out that this is BS. I had a conversation with J&P; turns out they made a mistake. It's actually 200CCA and has always been 200CCA.
I purchased this battery due to the higher Advertised 310CCA. To my dismay - I found out that this is BS. I had a conversation with J&P; turns out they made a mistake. It's actually 200CCA and has always been 200CCA.
We've all been duped.
LOL, thanks, that's good to know. After posting, I also heard these batteries have "hollow" battery posts with a nut inside. I had one of those type of batteries before from Drag Specialties, and one of the nuts pulled through the hollow post. Don't need or want that kind of junk again, we have enough problems keeping battery cables clean and tight
That's a strong indication of a bad battery. Dropping to around 11.0v is typical.
After initial charge - when I hit the start button - it drops to almost 10v. Then when I do it again - it drops to almost 6v. Wow, I thought maybe the starter relay had something to do with it, but you think it could be the battery huh.
If you are pretty much stock, your bike runs fine and the cables are tight and the little green light is solid and has been on charge for 24 hours (wow), it's the BATTERY. Cheap check. Do the above. Then jump the car battery (- to - and + to + of course) This will give it more then enough CCA. It it cranks OK, it's the bike battery. If it does not, it's probably the large contact (8) or the L shaped contacts it hit's on in the starter solenoid . Mine had been doing that and the battery been given two clean bills of health on the fancy testers. New battery fixed it. However my battery was old. However, the maintenance charges can extend batteries past their actual good working life and also cause starter banging on a Harley motor when the CCA is low but voltage is normal.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:07 AM.
After initial charge - when I hit the start button - it drops to almost 10v. Then when I do it again - it drops to almost 6v. Wow, I thought maybe the starter relay had something to do with it, but you think it could be the battery huh.
You can have the battery Load Tested free at almost any auto parts store. Just take the battery out of the bike and make sure it has a full charge before you take it in for the test.
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