Electrical Problem
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Worcester, England
Electrical Problem
Hi All,
I am new to this forum but have a problem that I can't find help with on any forums.
I have a '07 Sportster 1200 low and recently have been experiencing ignition problems.
When I turn the key on, the main front and rear lights come on ok but there is no engine management light or neutral or oil lights and the bike won't turn over, plus when I depress either brake the head and rear lights both go off.
It sounds like a bad earth to me but I don't know what to do and am at a loss as I can't get to work without the bike!!
I have tightened all the earths I can, battery is fine, oh and another pointer that may help identify the problem is that the oil and neutral light do occasionally flicker on and off but dimly but that is becoming less frequent now, they used to flicker all the time and sometimes the bike would start after a little wiggling of the key in the ignition but now nothing.
Any help with instructions would be greatly appreciated as I am at my wits end and am not very good with bikes and can't afford to have it done by a garage.
I am new to this forum but have a problem that I can't find help with on any forums.
I have a '07 Sportster 1200 low and recently have been experiencing ignition problems.
When I turn the key on, the main front and rear lights come on ok but there is no engine management light or neutral or oil lights and the bike won't turn over, plus when I depress either brake the head and rear lights both go off.
It sounds like a bad earth to me but I don't know what to do and am at a loss as I can't get to work without the bike!!
I have tightened all the earths I can, battery is fine, oh and another pointer that may help identify the problem is that the oil and neutral light do occasionally flicker on and off but dimly but that is becoming less frequent now, they used to flicker all the time and sometimes the bike would start after a little wiggling of the key in the ignition but now nothing.
Any help with instructions would be greatly appreciated as I am at my wits end and am not very good with bikes and can't afford to have it done by a garage.
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Worcester, England
Well I haven't checked it but I really can't see that that's the problem, I mean why would the lights go out when I depress either brake pedal and when the ignition lights DO come on the bike starts fine?
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 306
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
The 2007 Sporty is notorious for corrosion problems in the relay/fuse box area.
I'd start by removing all the fuses and relays.
Clean all of the fuse and relay contacts.
Check the fuses with a meter to make sure they are good. Looking at them doesn't count.
Coat the fuse and relay contacts with dielectric grease, you can get it at an auto parts store.
Reinstall the relays and fuses.
.
I'd start by removing all the fuses and relays.
Clean all of the fuse and relay contacts.
Check the fuses with a meter to make sure they are good. Looking at them doesn't count.
Coat the fuse and relay contacts with dielectric grease, you can get it at an auto parts store.
Reinstall the relays and fuses.
.
The 2007 Sporty is notorious for corrosion problems in the relay/fuse box area.
I'd start by removing all the fuses and relays.
Clean all of the fuse and relay contacts.
Check the fuses with a meter to make sure they are good. Looking at them doesn't count.
Coat the fuse and relay contacts with dielectric grease, you can get it at an auto parts store.
Reinstall the relays and fuses.
.
I'd start by removing all the fuses and relays.
Clean all of the fuse and relay contacts.
Check the fuses with a meter to make sure they are good. Looking at them doesn't count.
Coat the fuse and relay contacts with dielectric grease, you can get it at an auto parts store.
Reinstall the relays and fuses.
.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 1
From: cd. Obregon, Sonora, mx
Start with a fully charged battery. The first thing I'd check is the ignition switch. With a voltmeter check to make sure you have 12 volts DC in the on and ACC position and 0 volts in the off position. Pull your brake fuse and see if the lights stay on when you apply the brakes. Basically what you're doing is chasing wires and following the process of elimination. With electrical problems, sometimes it's just as good to know what it's not. And always remember, it's the last thing you check that's always the problem.
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Worcester, England
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,335
Likes: 27
From: San Diego, CA
Here is a quote from one of my posts from awhile back. I know you said that all your "earths" were good but my question is was the negative terminal ever loose before this problem arose? If so, the carbon build up on the connectors at the battery terminal may be causing the problem. Please read the quote below, it explains the main reason that the terminal comes loose in the first place, what happens when it does and what needs to be done to correct it. This problem with the negative terminal on Sportsters is a well know problem and cause of so many different electrical problems.
The main cause is vibration. That and the fact that the threads on the battery terminal are lead and you can't tighten them up that much without stripping the threads. You can try two things to prevent it from loosening though. You can put a star type lock washer on the bolt first before inserting it through the cable lug and threading it into the battery and use some blue locktite on the threads making sure none gets between the terminal and the lug of the cable. You may also want to put some dielectric grease between the star washer and the lug (I hesitate to put in on the side the battery terminal is, because if it get on the threads there it could render the locktite useless).
If the battery was arcing like you have said, you may still be able to save it. First make sure that the lug on the cable does not have any carbon build up on it (most of the arcing is From the battery terminal TO the lug. You may have to grind or sand (with a Dremel tool) or chip/scrap the carbon build up off (with a knife). Since the battery terminal is made of lead you can usually clean it with a small wire brush (use a small wire brush to make sure they don't short across the two terminals).
I have also, in the past, used a small cutting disk on my Dremel tool to cut enough of the backside of the battery terminal to insert a nut in there. Then I can tighten down that bolt as tight as I want and don't have to worry about the threads on the terminal at all (I usually only do this as a last resort after the threads have been stripped by someone who got over zealous about not ever having his bolt come loose again). In the old days of motorcycles, that is the way all batteries used to come. I wish they made them that way still.
Hope this answers your questions.
If the battery was arcing like you have said, you may still be able to save it. First make sure that the lug on the cable does not have any carbon build up on it (most of the arcing is From the battery terminal TO the lug. You may have to grind or sand (with a Dremel tool) or chip/scrap the carbon build up off (with a knife). Since the battery terminal is made of lead you can usually clean it with a small wire brush (use a small wire brush to make sure they don't short across the two terminals).
I have also, in the past, used a small cutting disk on my Dremel tool to cut enough of the backside of the battery terminal to insert a nut in there. Then I can tighten down that bolt as tight as I want and don't have to worry about the threads on the terminal at all (I usually only do this as a last resort after the threads have been stripped by someone who got over zealous about not ever having his bolt come loose again). In the old days of motorcycles, that is the way all batteries used to come. I wish they made them that way still.
Hope this answers your questions.
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Worcester, England
Well I have taken out and cleaned and greased all fuses and relays by the battery.
Still no joy but the ignition lights(Neutral and oil lights) came on today but I guess battery is flat now after all the messing about so it's on charge at the moment.
I remember before all this happened we went through a couple of really big puddles on the road so maybe that has something to do with it?
Thanks for all your advice, it is much appreciated.
Maybe it is the ignition barrel itself because when I started having this problem, jiggling the key around sometimes did the trick and was the only way I could get the bike to start to the point that the barrel eventually loosened from the little bolt that holds it there so you could move the barrel about from side to side quite a bit and holding it in a certain position caused the ignition to come on and I could start her up.
I'll see what happens when the battery is charged and I appreciate that it could be a number of things and understand what some of you are saying about having to go through a process of elimination but I simply can't afford to do that but if this doesn't work then I will try a new ignition barrel firstly.
Still no joy but the ignition lights(Neutral and oil lights) came on today but I guess battery is flat now after all the messing about so it's on charge at the moment.
I remember before all this happened we went through a couple of really big puddles on the road so maybe that has something to do with it?
Thanks for all your advice, it is much appreciated.
Maybe it is the ignition barrel itself because when I started having this problem, jiggling the key around sometimes did the trick and was the only way I could get the bike to start to the point that the barrel eventually loosened from the little bolt that holds it there so you could move the barrel about from side to side quite a bit and holding it in a certain position caused the ignition to come on and I could start her up.
I'll see what happens when the battery is charged and I appreciate that it could be a number of things and understand what some of you are saying about having to go through a process of elimination but I simply can't afford to do that but if this doesn't work then I will try a new ignition barrel firstly.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 30
From: Maryland near DC
first thing I would do (after the above ) is to spray the key switch all over with what ever type of water repelling spray you guys over in jolly ol' england have that resembles CRC
idea is to wash out any dirt or water that may be in the switch..the lube itself won't short out anything..turn the switch off and on with the key a bunch of times while you spray it and see if that helps...if it does replace the switch..if not I would go to the manual wiring diagram an check that the switch is functioning correctly with a meter...It sound to me like the switch is not working correctly and i would bet it needs to be replaced...that should help some of the issues....next I would look at the plug for the engine controller (under the seat?? I don't know my sporty is carbed) to make sure it is clean and dry and has good connections/contacts...and check the ground for the controller...clean and add electrical grease where needed...
