Higher Handlebar Question
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 259
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From: Canada
Higher Handlebar Question
When swapping to handlebars which have a higher rise, would you guys swap out all the cables first (clutch, brakes, throttle) then change the bars or would you guys do the opposite?
Right now i have 10" bars on and want to put my 14" apes from my other bike. The throttle cables look like there is plenty of slack so i don't think i need to change those. Clutch and brake i will need to for sure.
Right now i have 10" bars on and want to put my 14" apes from my other bike. The throttle cables look like there is plenty of slack so i don't think i need to change those. Clutch and brake i will need to for sure.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 582
Likes: 2
From: Sweden
You do it at the same time I suppose. That's what I did when I went from 10" to 14". I extended the wires and internally wired the bars, replaced the clutch cable and he throttle cables. I didn't replace the brake line cause I fitted a 45" line when I put my 10" Zeds on.
You didn't say what model you've got but looking at your avatar it's a 48? Do you still have stock cables, lines and do you have a wire tuck or not? Finally what bars (make, model) are you going to put on?
You didn't say what model you've got but looking at your avatar it's a 48? Do you still have stock cables, lines and do you have a wire tuck or not? Finally what bars (make, model) are you going to put on?
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 259
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From: Canada
Ya it's a 48. Right now everything is stock but i do have a wire tuck and the wires on my bars currently are run internally. I'm swapping over some 14" burly narrow apes.
My plan was to slowly work on switching out the clutch and brake lines. Of course with my luck the easiest things are always the most difficult. I'm right in the middle of changing out the clutch cable and drop the coupling lever into the primary. Before i take the primary off completely i am going to try and fish it out with a bendable magnet but i'm wondering if that coupling lever or whatever you call it, is it stainless steel? I really hope not because i really don't feel like draining the oil and taking off the primary.
My plan was to slowly work on switching out the clutch and brake lines. Of course with my luck the easiest things are always the most difficult. I'm right in the middle of changing out the clutch cable and drop the coupling lever into the primary. Before i take the primary off completely i am going to try and fish it out with a bendable magnet but i'm wondering if that coupling lever or whatever you call it, is it stainless steel? I really hope not because i really don't feel like draining the oil and taking off the primary.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 582
Likes: 2
From: Sweden
Ya it's a 48. Right now everything is stock but i do have a wire tuck and the wires on my bars currently are run internally. I'm swapping over some 14" burly narrow apes.
My plan was to slowly work on switching out the clutch and brake lines. Of course with my luck the easiest things are always the most difficult. I'm right in the middle of changing out the clutch cable and drop the coupling lever into the primary. Before i take the primary off completely i am going to try and fish it out with a bendable magnet but i'm wondering if that coupling lever or whatever you call it, is it stainless steel? I really hope not because i really don't feel like draining the oil and taking off the primary.
My plan was to slowly work on switching out the clutch and brake lines. Of course with my luck the easiest things are always the most difficult. I'm right in the middle of changing out the clutch cable and drop the coupling lever into the primary. Before i take the primary off completely i am going to try and fish it out with a bendable magnet but i'm wondering if that coupling lever or whatever you call it, is it stainless steel? I really hope not because i really don't feel like draining the oil and taking off the primary.
Just a heads up if you decide on using a cable kit, the 48 has 0" rise and the kits are made for bikes with 2" risers. Which means you'll be fine with a 12" cable kit. I ordered 16" bars and a 14" kit but they sent me 14" bars because they thought my order was wrong!? So I now have a bit too much wires especially too much clutch
Good luck with the apes and welcome to monkey land!
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Crap! That sucks! Hope you can get it out without removing the primary case.
Just a heads up if you decide on using a cable kit, the 48 has 0" rise and the kits are made for bikes with 2" risers. Which means you'll be fine with a 12" cable kit. I ordered 16" bars and a 14" kit but they sent me 14" bars because they thought my order was wrong!? So I now have a bit too much wires especially too much clutch
Good luck with the apes and welcome to monkey land!
Just a heads up if you decide on using a cable kit, the 48 has 0" rise and the kits are made for bikes with 2" risers. Which means you'll be fine with a 12" cable kit. I ordered 16" bars and a 14" kit but they sent me 14" bars because they thought my order was wrong!? So I now have a bit too much wires especially too much clutch
Good luck with the apes and welcome to monkey land!
Was it because you couldn't get to the coupling or because it wasn't magnetic? I am actually going to pick up a magnet that is bendable and see if that works.
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