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Can't comment the tire change. As others here, I just take my wheels off and let my Indy shop do the change - about $30 a wheel. I do however use the Ride-on balancing stuff. I started using it when i went with custom wheels on my Street Glide because I didn't want the unsightly weights attached to my nice custom wheels. The stuff works as advertised. I've never had a puncture but it's nice to know there is some added protection there.
Well, I guess I learn something new everytime I log on.I never knew a Streetglide had 4 wheels bearings in the rear wheel.My RK only has two bearings in each wheel and my Ultra only had two in each wheel.
There are 2 side by side in the IDS pulley. Atleast that is what the diagram says. I haven't pulled the rear wheel yet but I have 2 standard bearings here to replace them.
Been changing tires for many years. Started with just a couple tire irons and found that the tire and rim are difficult to hold while using irons. Even tried rigging up old car rim to help support and it turned out to be a pita. Finally bought cheap harbor freight tire changer and bought motorcycle attachment for it. This does nice job of breaking bead and holding rim to use iron and spoons to remove tire. Also use rim protectors to keep from scratching rims. Dyna beads are my choice of balancer. We have 3 bikes and ride 15K to 20K a year so I spend a lot of time changing tires and when the friends find out they are guick to ask you to change their tire also. I always check bearings, only ever changed 1 since 2003, just because you change a bearing doesn't mean it won't fail. Find myself changing car and truck tires with this HF changer so it is handy to have around. Buy cheap tire changer.
I'll chime in on this for the third or fourth time here; use metal valve stems, I had a rubber one break off when I tried to put air in it (at home, felt lucky!). Not mentioned yet, it can be a real pita to get tubeless tires to seat on the rim; just about forget using a standard air chuck, need one that is free flowing that works without the valve in the wheel stem, get a whole lot more air flow. I just took a standard chuck, took the center out (that depresses the valve on the wheel), and drilled it out larger. Big difference, with my 200 psi compressor, usually pops them right on. There's all kinds of tricks, straps, tie wraps, starting fluid, but enough air flow is often all you need.
I bought a used Cycle Hill motorcycle tire changer, NoMar's budget line. So much easier than spoons, and it's bead breaker is easy, too. Have to change more than one bike's tires to make it financially worthwhile, though.
If you do remove the bearings, they're really tight (should be, anyway) and need a sturdy puller. I have a Pit Posse puller, has the bushings required for all three size Harley axles. I doubt a slide hammer type would do any more than frustrate you.
It's been my experience that the tall skinny tires are hardest to change. Fat 16 inchers are fairly easy - with a tire changer, I don't think any of them are easy with spoons. At least you won't have to suffer with tubes on your bike.
I'll chime in on this for the third or fourth time here; use metal valve stems, I had a rubber one break off when I tried to put air in it (at home, felt lucky!). Not mentioned yet, it can be a real pita to get tubeless tires to seat on the rim; just about forget using a standard air chuck, need one that is free flowing that works without the valve in the wheel stem, get a whole lot more air flow. I just took a standard chuck, took the center out (that depresses the valve on the wheel), and drilled it out larger. Big difference, with my 200 psi compressor, usually pops them right on. There's all kinds of tricks, straps, tie wraps, starting fluid, but enough air flow is often all you need.
I bought a used Cycle Hill motorcycle tire changer, NoMar's budget line. So much easier than spoons, and it's bead breaker is easy, too. Have to change more than one bike's tires to make it financially worthwhile, though.
If you do remove the bearings, they're really tight (should be, anyway) and need a sturdy puller. I have a Pit Posse puller, has the bushings required for all three size Harley axles. I doubt a slide hammer type would do any more than frustrate you.
It's been my experience that the tall skinny tires are hardest to change. Fat 16 inchers are fairly easy - with a tire changer, I don't think any of them are easy with spoons. At least you won't have to suffer with tubes on your bike.
don't forget to line the dot up with the valve stem, and on tubless tires I always clean the inside of the rim. I use the 2x4 method to break the bead on tubless tires, works pretty well.
Google changing M/C tires, several good write ups and time savers.
don't forget to line the dot up with the valve stem, and on tubless tires I always clean the inside of the rim. I use the 2x4 method to break the bead on tubless tires, works pretty well.
Google changing M/C tires, several good write ups and time savers.
None of the tires I've used the past few years had a dot. I just rotate the tire around the rim on a static balancer till I find the spot with the least out of balance, then seat the bead there. Can make an ounce or more difference in out of balance before weights, if you use those. I use stick on weights temporarily to find out how much it really needs, then I'll use a bit more than that of Dynabeads. I suspect the folks that say they don't work didn't use enough, some wheel/tire combinations can be off substantially more than the Dynabead figures for various tire sizes.
I've used two 3' long hunks of 4x4. Rest the rim on them and let the rotor drop in between. No damage. And yes HD tires are stiff. For them, have a good compressor, and a tire machine.
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