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...What you are forgetting is that your switch point may be within acceptable parameters. The actual starting calibration could be dangerously lean. This is why using a gas analyzer is critical to anything more than a stage 1 build.
Well, bad on me. I ASSUMED some knowledge and common sense would be used in selecting a starting calibration.
But then I'm reminded that's why the "auto tune" and piggy back systems are so popular with the uneducated...it takes a concerted effort to frig them up.
Well, bad on me. I ASSUMED some knowledge and common sense would be used in selecting a starting calibration.
But then I'm reminded that's why the "auto tune" and piggy back systems are so popular with the uneducated...it takes a concerted effort to frig them up.
That's why I sated earlier that I wouldn't recommend it for much more than a stage I build, maybe certain cams but there seams to be a lot of people running it on big bore bikes with head work. I've seen some trying to tune in a 124" full on build. To me if someone wants to spend that kind of coin on a build they should budget a tune into the build. I know there is not good tuners everywhere but I would either not do teh build or budget travel into my build. I just tuned a healthy build that they guy drove 3 states away to have me do it.
I'm getting ready to have new cams, heads and head pipe installed. The shop's wanting to do a dyno tune also........ just wondering
Absolute no brainer when doing cams, heads and pipe. However, it MUST be tuned by a competent dyno operator. If you have a tuner your confident in you will not regret the tune. You will note the majority of the naysayers that tell you not to are historically people that have never had one done to reap the benefits of one yet they'll tell you not to get one. Go for it. You won't be sorryy but seek out a good one.
I have had good luck wit canned maps on my touring bikes. My CVO was a pain to get close to right. Had it dyno tuned. HP/tq numbers don't do anything for me. I want to feel it. I did not gain much more usable power but it runs cooler with a better running machine.
It is smooth all the way up in any rpm rage.I lost one mpg. It cranks easier, hot/cold conditions.
Only got 95hp with 105 tq. I was hopping for 100/100
I have had good luck wit canned maps on my touring bikes. My CVO was a pain to get close to right. Had it dyno tuned. HP/tq numbers don't do anything for me. I want to feel it. I did not gain much more usable power but it runs cooler with a better running machine.
It is smooth all the way up in any rpm rage.I lost one mpg. It cranks easier, hot/cold conditions. Only got 95hp with 105 tq. I was hopping for 100/100
I believe if I had the choice of either I would choose what you got! 95/105
Absolute no brainer when doing cams, heads and pipe. However, it MUST be tuned by a competent dyno operator. If you have a tuner your confident in you will not regret the tune. You will note the majority of the naysayers that tell you not to are historically people that have never had one done to reap the benefits of one yet they'll tell you not to get one. Go for it. You won't be sorryy but seek out a good one.
Finding a good tuner is hard to find in my opinion. I had my softail tuned three times to get it right and $900 total.
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