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I was using a torque wrench at the time... Thought it was weird that it was not hitting the limit. Not sure if the cap was split when I started. Might as well replace both while I am there. Thanks
Make SURE when you put it back together that you walk the cap up a little at a time by going back and forth from one nut to the other.
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A=md to add to that dont forget to use some blue loctite when installing the new studs for axle cap in the forks and also on other ends when tightening the axle nuts too.
I was using a torque wrench at the time... Thought it was weird that it was not hitting the limit. Not sure if the cap was split when I started. Might as well replace both while I am there. Thanks
If someone put it on before you and just used gorilla arm "make it tight", could have stretched the studs till they wouldn't handle proper torque next time. I've had bolts and studs snap way before they reached recommended torque with a torque wrench; it can happen. If you got the bike used, or someone else has worked on it, blame them.
I was using a torque wrench at the time... Thought it was weird that it was not hitting the limit. Not sure if the cap was split when I started. Might as well replace both while I am there. Thanks
Just a speculation, based on observation of what I see. You didn't have the wheel held up into the fork and were pulling it up with the cap. That's not a good way to put it together. Either shim the wheel up into the fork, or lower the bike down onto the axle, then attach the cap. You don't need the bike sitting heavy on the axle (which would make adjustment impossible), but you do want minimal clearance. The cap studs are small and not well suited to lifting the comparatively heavy wheel assembly up into the fork.
Just a speculation, based on observation of what I see. You didn't have the wheel held up into the fork and were pulling it up with the cap. That's not a good way to put it together. Either shim the wheel up into the fork, or lower the bike down onto the axle, then attach the cap. You don't need the bike sitting heavy on the axle (which would make adjustment impossible), but you do want minimal clearance. The cap studs are small and not well suited to lifting the comparatively heavy wheel assembly up into the fork.
To me it looks everything was assembled correctly (the axle is resting in the fork) and he simply used a foot pounds torque wrench to over tighten the nuts which spread the studs outward at the ends as they stick out of the Cap.
100 something Foot Pounds later (which is crazy to think a little nut/stud would require that - first clue) the Cap broke and he looked and went "Uh Oh! Look what I dids!" It happens... I guess...
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by davidwruth
+1 on the little heat. Need something to help fight the loctite
A low intensity arc welder connected across your two studs will slowly build up heat across the two threads you need to loosen and will not damage the varnish of the fork. An electrician can promptly do this for you while you keep your attention on the temperature of the fork leg. Time is your ally in this case.
A low intensity arc welder connected across your two studs will slowly build up heat across the two threads you need to loosen and will not damage the varnish of the fork. An electrician can promptly do this for you while you keep your attention on the temperature of the fork leg. Time is your ally in this case.
I don't recommend this procedure. You don't want to heat the studs. They will expand with heat and be harder to remove. You want to heat the lower so it expands. It's aluminum so a little heat goes a long way. Arcing electricity has potential for personal injury or worse. Not to mention the electrical system on the bike may be damaged. Just my .02˘ as an electrician.
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