Voltage Regulator issues?
I just recently replaced my stator and rotor on my 99 electra glide classic that currently has about 47k miles on her. For the past month or so I have been riding and the volt meter has been at a steady 14v on all rides and I have had no issues what so ever until now.
Yesterday I went on a group ride of about 200 miles. I noticed the meter would fluctuate between 10 and 14v...I know the battery is good as I had it tested when I replaced the stator, and it is only about a year old.
Does it sound like I am having issues with the regulator now?
Yesterday I went on a group ride of about 200 miles. I noticed the meter would fluctuate between 10 and 14v...I know the battery is good as I had it tested when I replaced the stator, and it is only about a year old.
Does it sound like I am having issues with the regulator now?
In the Tech Electrical section you will find a couple of stickies describing how to check your charging system. You'll need a multimeter, but that should help you identify the culprit. Don't guess what is going wrong, as it can get expensive replacing stuff that is OK.
I'd check the connection where the reg. plugs into the stator. I've seen a few melted and making poor contact. Then,check your connection from the v.r. at the positive post on the battery.
As far as I know,a v.r. either works,or doesn't.
As far as I know,a v.r. either works,or doesn't.
as GR said do the checks in a methodical manner.
the stator should out put 16 to 20 volts AC PER 1000 rpms--- so 3000 rpms should give you close to 48~60 volts AC...not DC )
ohm resistance in teh stator are in the manual for your model but may vary if you have another type stator
the VR converts the AC to DC ... via a diode bridge and THEN limits the voltage to under 14.8- the excess is shed as heat --- that's why it has cooling fins and is mounted in the airstream ( never get a chrome cover for the VR!)
top tip....check voltages AT the battery...the in dash voltmeter is subject to voltage drop in the wiring and will respond to the spots/ lights on off, horn etc.
giving you spurious readings
2.) too many times riders say "the battery is new" and replace a whole bunch of parts...then find out the battery was duff.
also check the cables...I have a neighbor who spent $1300 at the dealer chasing a problem...batteries, stators, VRs...turned out he had a bad cable

$12 fix
mike
the stator should out put 16 to 20 volts AC PER 1000 rpms--- so 3000 rpms should give you close to 48~60 volts AC...not DC )
ohm resistance in teh stator are in the manual for your model but may vary if you have another type stator
the VR converts the AC to DC ... via a diode bridge and THEN limits the voltage to under 14.8- the excess is shed as heat --- that's why it has cooling fins and is mounted in the airstream ( never get a chrome cover for the VR!)
top tip....check voltages AT the battery...the in dash voltmeter is subject to voltage drop in the wiring and will respond to the spots/ lights on off, horn etc.
giving you spurious readings
2.) too many times riders say "the battery is new" and replace a whole bunch of parts...then find out the battery was duff.
also check the cables...I have a neighbor who spent $1300 at the dealer chasing a problem...batteries, stators, VRs...turned out he had a bad cable

$12 fix
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Mar 16, 2015 at 07:10 PM.
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