chain Tensioners
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,518
Likes: 59
From: Port Neches Texas
I just changed tappets, cams, and pushrods in my 2010. At 30,000 miles the wear was basically non exsistent. And wear was equal in front and back. I put them back in as is and have zero concerns.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 22
From: Denham Springs, La
My 09 Ultra might blow up tomorrow but if it does, I guess I got my money's worth. She's been running for 112,000 miles. I don't have a clue what the tensioner shoes look like. The engine is stock with Stage 1.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,101
Likes: 1,013
Never checked them???
You are playing Russian roulette!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,403
Likes: 20
From: Indy
OK here it goes, with the new hydraulic cam chain tentioners mounted on the new billet cam plate, harley used a roller chain on the front (primary) and still kept the link chain in the back, (secondary), with the new billet cam plate you cannot see the rear shoe to inspect it,which is going to wear faster because of the link chain. Smoke and mirrors mother harley, get the orange plastic tentioners out of there, they are unpredictable ticking time bombs FHD
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 90
From: australia
Twin cruiser, I just did the shoe upgrade on my bike, yes I used cyco gaskets shoe, fueling oe+ oil pump, baisley spring and plunger, replaces stock oil bypass spring and plunger and is far superior, so in doing this project I had a ton of hours investigating this for I wanted the best bang for the buck, and wanted to do the job right,If you had spent the time researching the tensioner shoe problem like I have, it is very clear that they are indeed time bombs, and for bragging rights I removed the secondary tentioner and put it back on with no special tools, without removing the cams,ride safe ride hard FHD
r
r
I thought you had to remove push rods , (cut old and replace with adjustables, or lift rocker boxes), and lifters , and pull the cam chest to get access to replace the secondary cam tentioner !!!!
If there is a less time consuming way to replace the inside cam tensioner, I'm all ears !!!!!! Cheers..
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,471
Likes: 2,998
From: Charleston, SC
Could you give a little more info on how you replaced the Secondary tentioner , (inside), without having to remove the cam chest and cams ....
I thought you had to remove push rods , (cut old and replace with adjustables, or lift rocker boxes), and lifters , and pull the cam chest to get access to replace the secondary cam tentioner !!!!
If there is a less time consuming way to replace the inside cam tensioner, I'm all ears !!!!!! Cheers..
I thought you had to remove push rods , (cut old and replace with adjustables, or lift rocker boxes), and lifters , and pull the cam chest to get access to replace the secondary cam tentioner !!!!
If there is a less time consuming way to replace the inside cam tensioner, I'm all ears !!!!!! Cheers..
I'm sure he did all the other stuff you mentioned.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 90
From: australia
[QUOTE=lp;14295392[COLOR=Red]]He said he did not have to remove the cams (from the cam plate) which in itself is a good trick...
I'm sure he did all the other stuff you mentioned.[[/COLOR]/QUOTE]
After I re read his post, you are probably right,,,
The older tourers , have bearings in the cam plate, and you have to press in cams to remove and install.
The newer bikes dont have bearings in the cam plate, they are just a push in fit .. Either way, if you want to check properly, or replace the secondary tensioner , cam plate has to be removed to gain access to the secondary tensioner ,( ie , remove push rods and lifter, etc, ) .... For a while there, I thought you guys in the States had some sort of trick , whereby you did'nt have to remove the cam plate to replace the secondary tensioner ... bummer ..... Cheers ..
I'm sure he did all the other stuff you mentioned.[[/COLOR]/QUOTE]
After I re read his post, you are probably right,,,
The older tourers , have bearings in the cam plate, and you have to press in cams to remove and install.
The newer bikes dont have bearings in the cam plate, they are just a push in fit .. Either way, if you want to check properly, or replace the secondary tensioner , cam plate has to be removed to gain access to the secondary tensioner ,( ie , remove push rods and lifter, etc, ) .... For a while there, I thought you guys in the States had some sort of trick , whereby you did'nt have to remove the cam plate to replace the secondary tensioner ... bummer ..... Cheers ..
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,101
Likes: 1,013
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 32
From: Elk Grove, California
This guy made a cool little tool for this.
How to remove a Harley twin cam secondary chain tensioner without removing the cams 99 thru 06 - YouTube
How to remove a Harley twin cam secondary chain tensioner without removing the cams 99 thru 06 - YouTube
Stage III
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Ma
After you cut the push rods and replace the tensioners what does it take to put in adjustable push rods?
Anyone have a ball park to have a Harley dealer do the hydrolic upgrade?
Considering an 03 ultra with 30k and do not think this has been done. I am trying to figure out what I will be getting into.
Anyone have a ball park to have a Harley dealer do the hydrolic upgrade?
Considering an 03 ultra with 30k and do not think this has been done. I am trying to figure out what I will be getting into.