Hey Folks,

Performance observation/question on my 2013 RKC now that I've put about 350-400 miles on it with some upgrades.

On my 2013 RKC I have added the following:

Rinehart Classic Duals
SE-255 CAMs
Stage 1 AC

Bike has stock pushrods and no head work since the tank had to come off for a couple other mods. I ride two up about 60% of the time and like torque from a stop as far through the RPM range in as many gears as I can get it.

I have a Power Vision Tuner which has a base map for this set up from Dynojet on the bike currently. Here's their Fuel Map:



The bike runs fairly well from a stop to about 4000 RPMs in 1st through 3rd gear and part of 4th gear and seems to run out of umph in 5th or 6th when cruising and needing to pass on the freeway at 70+ MPH. It also doesn't seem to have that "dig into the ground" feeling other bikes I've had with the SE 203 CAMs have had. Not sure if that's all CAM or not enough fuel somewhere?

I know the 255's are sort of known for this lack of upper band power and I do have plans to move to a TW-7H or TW-777 CAM next winter (I put this 255 in because I had it leftover from my 2012 SE RG so it was "free"-sorta and I figured it would be a temporary power upgrade over the stock CAM in the bike until I could get serious with a CAM with more umph at a later date - and it is but not what I hoped).

My dilemma is I'm wondering if there are any changes I can/should make to this Fuel map that might help with a little more power in 4th/5th/6th gear and overall??? I took the liberty to modify the map and save it to my laptop but haven't applied it to the bike yet and was looking for some opinions on the changes I made to see if:

1) They will do anything towards providing more power.

or

2) If anything looks wrong.

or

3) Anyone has any other ideas?

Here's the map after my changes:





I am not a Fuel Moto customer so I cant just go get a new tune from them, thus my attempt at modifying the base map myself. I may go back to the resource at Dynojet as well to see if they have any suggestions.

So... if anyone has any thoughts on this, it would be appreciated.

The move to a more powerful CAM will also include some mild head work, new .030 gasket and likely flat top or other pistons appropriate for the CAM choice I make next winter. Not sure either of those CAMs require anything else since they are bolt in's acording to Woods site. I had the TW-7H in my 2012 SE RG and thought it performed well once dialed in with a tune and that was with true duals as well which I plan on keeping on the RKC. Of course any thoughts on this are also welcome.

Thanks!

 

Send an Email to DynoJet with your map. They will help you out. They got my bike dialed in with just a few tries.

 

Thanks, I sent email a few minutes ago. If anyone "knows" how to manipulate the fuel band though, feel free!

 

Stop...You need to have your bike tuned by a professional. You could start by doing some auto tunes with the PV basic. You first should read your manual about how to auto tune or watch some videos about tuning with the pv. What you did to your main Lambda table was make it leaner. Your VE tables are what need to tuned.

 

+1 on the auto tune. After a few auto tune runs, you should see some improvement.

When doing your auto tune run, ride it you normally would, while also trying to go past just a bit.

For example, I generally seldom exceed 3500 RPM or 50% throttle.
So, for my auto tune runs, I would try to get to 4000 RPM & 60% throttle

 

Go back to the AFR table you had initially. As said, your changes will make it leaner, less power. Then, as said, run a few auto tune basic sessions. Take your current map, auto tune, then save it in a new slot. Then reload that new tune into the ecm, and run a second auto tune. What you need is to populate the VE tables with the auto tune function. You can go to gages, and set up some live feedback by setting up VE front actual, and another gage for VE front new. Do the same for the rear. Now you have the ability to see the actual VE value and also what the ECM desires. After a few auto tune sessions, the values should dial in and mirror each other for the front, and also for the rear. The closer the actual value reads to the desired, the better the tune is. Timing tables play a lot into the responsiveness as well. Send me a PM with your email, and I'll send you a tune I had that you can reference.

 

Definitely do the Autotunes. Very important.

But, just another possibility. This Spring I got my bike up on a dyno prior to having FuelMoto do a 107 build. What they found was that my fuel system was failing at about 3500rpm... WOT asking for more gas the fuel system just flat lined, and so did the power.

Makes me wonder how many riders are riding around with fuel systems that are only capable of delivering less than the required fuel on the top end of the rpm spectrum. Difficult to identify and troubleshoot but it became immediately obvious on the dyno.

My only hint of this was that during Autotunes with my PV the system kept looking to scale up to a larger displacement. (It's way of looking for more fuel.)

 

Thanks guys. Not to worry, I didnt load my tune to anything. Will leave it to the professionals.

 

Sporacer, I got a reply from PV Tech yesterday and an adjusted Tune. I will be trying that this wknd. They also suggested changes to the VE tables.

However, I am wondering why the tune I got from them initially also isn't too lean with all the 14.6's from 1750 on in the RPM band? If my changes made it leaner, wasn't it too lean to begin with? is that contributing to the lack of power in certain gears?

 

If your not going to have it tuned you need to run some Vtune sessions. You cannot guess what it needs on your VE tables. Where they have the 14.6 lambda is the cruise range.