Ive removed the rear once to put on new agitators but dont recall any real issues. Of course the mufflers were removed and i used the jack to adjust the bikes weight on the rear tire in order to line stuff up. The brake caliper was also removed and out of the way. Dont recall any spacer aggrivation.

 

If you do it enough to ever get it all down to one smooth operation, you must be doing it for a living. I slide a smaller rod thru first since I do it by myself. I did reverse my axle. So I need to use a torque extension to torque it since my wrench will not go under the muffler.

 

I'm with ya, I've done the floor jack method of putting it back in and it wasn't pretty. I was using the little cheap 2k lb floor jack that the tire couldn't balance on and then trying to roll it forward as I jacked it up and keep it balanced and try to line it all up. It wasn't bad if you've got another set of hands. My family tends to hide during such events knowing it usually comes to foul words and all that.

 

Procedures for my bike and yours may be different. My manual says to remove the caliper, makes trying to position the wheel alot easier when the rotor is not wedged between the brake pads. the short cut would be not removing the caliper and then fighting it, someone else in this thread said they don't remove the caliper. I lower my bike until its all lined up and then slip in the spacers and shove the axle thru.

 

It's not so easy with the '00-'07's. One piece caliper-spacer-bracket doesn't help, pain to get everything lined up. It would be a lot easier with the two piece brembo caliper.
I remove the lower shock bolts and I use a piece of 5/8" rod in place of the axle to help with lining up everything. Follow the rod with the axle. I use a scissors jack to raise and lower the bike.

 

Does anyone sell a small lift that has a valve to bleed it down slow? The one I have and seen has the peddle and there's no way you can lower it slowly. It comes down either fast or drops it. That would make putting the rear back in alot easier than having to have a floor jack to lift it back up into it.

 

If you will do a search for "Law Abiding Biker" you will find a free video that goes through the entire process.

 

The J&S jack lowers as slow and easy as you want, full control.

 

Yep - money well spent

 

Swapping rear wheels is one of those things that some guys seem to have a deathly fear of. Like everything, it gets easier with practice. After doing it a handful of times, it's simple and painless. I like to use a jack to lift the bike off the wheel, and lower it back over the wheel on installation. The wheel stays on the shop floor, or table bed, the bike is moved up and down as needed. Get a decent hydraulic jack, it doesn't have to be expensive. The sears red jack will do just fine, and you'll get years of service out of it. You can also use a scissor jack, which is generally what you'd use if your bike was on a table. You don't need a jack, but it sure makes it easier. I've done rear wheel swaps in a campground, with the bike perched on a stump, and me lifting the wheel into place with my legs as I sat underneath the rear of the bike.


Remove the left muffler if you have one, and possibly the forward saddlebag support mount, so it can also be moved out of the way. If you're using a jack to raise and lower your bike, be careful of the change in center of gravity when the wheel comes off. It's a good idea to strap your bike to the lift, but when you raise and lower the bike, you need to be adjusting the ratchet straps as you go.


I watched some of the video mentioned earlier in the thread, and cringed at a couple of bad ideas. First, remove the caliper from the mounting bracket before you try to remove the wheel. Tie it to the right side saddlebag support rail with a zip tie. Obviously, if you have a 07-older bike, that's not an option. Upgrading to the 08 caliper/mount/rotor is a great thing to do for older bikes, if for no other reason than simplifying your wheel and brake maintenance. Secondly, use the correct size wrench. The rear axle nuts are 36mm, not 1-7/16". Using a too-large wrench will dork up your axle nuts.