Originally Posted by ericl

I put an 09 headpipe on my 2010 Roadking last Saturday. Not real difficult, on the transmission bracket bolt you do not have to remove all the way, it's slotted. If using a jack losen that one before jacking up. The 09 pipe has the wide band 18mm bungs and the 2010 are 12mm. And the bungs are located right at the jugs instead of the cat converter. I bought the O2 sensor relocation kit from night rider. The kit came with two bushings to reduce the sensor bung size to 12mm, and a wire extension for the front sensor. If you disconnect the senor wires, behind the right side cover you can take the sensors out of the header without concern of twisting the wires. The connectors are colored blk and grey, blk goes to the back. As Bsnilloc said put the gaskets in the freezer, not a lot of tolerance. I have a stage one and this was in preperation for a cam install, changing the header i did not notice anything regarding performance so I did not require another map. If you think about it the cat should not be restricting the exhaust, if it was there would be no gain to changing the AC and pipes at least that's the case on my SE breather and Monster Rounds. Good luck and as stated by others thank you for your service

Originally Posted by bagman1

Didn't FM tell you to retune it? They told me that. 2 things.. Be careful using an open end wrench on the o2 sensors they tend to round off the hex. Better tool is either an o2 socket or a flare nut wrench. Also always use never seeze on o2 thread and exhaust slip joints being careful not to get any on the sensor tip. You will get codes.

Originally Posted by shooter5074

Service manual !!!!

Just take your time. It's not a hard job to do. BUT..... the number one thing to remember is


INCH POUNDS not FOOT POUNDS on the head studs.

After loosely installing header and installing the mufflers

1 tighten the bottom nut of the rear cylinder head flange to 9-18 inch-pounds
2 tighten top nut of rear cylinder to 100 - 120 inch-pounds
3 tighten the bottom nut to 100 - 120 inch-pounds
4 tighten the top nut of the front cylinder head flange to 9-18 inch-pounds
5 tighten the bottom nut of the front cylinder to 100 - 120 inch-pounds
6 tighten the top nut to 100 - 120 inch-pounds

then tighten the remaining fasteners

This job is a whole lot easier if you have a lift. I'm getting to old to be crawling around on the floor.

Originally Posted by DaddyKnuck

They shipped the Micro tuner I've already installed with a pre-loaded map for the pipes with no cat. Supposedly once I install the pipes it's just a matter of dialing the Tuner to that map. The sensors are history with this tuner. I'm planning on plugging the sensor holes in the new pipe with plugs if I can find them, or just welding them over. Thanks.
JTC

Originally Posted by bagman1

They make plugs for them, just use never seeze on them so if you ever needed to remove them, you can.

Originally Posted by DaddyKnuck

Is this an auto parts store item?

Originally Posted by DaddyKnuck

Thanks for the head's up about the bung size. I was looking for the bigger plugs, but I need the 12mm. I'm not really expecting more power, but in conversation with the folks at Fuel Moto they recommended it to reduce heat. As the weather has gotten warmer I am noticing the heat quite a bit and I want to do this before Sturgis.