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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 09:26 PM
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Default Please help!!!!

I'm in dire need of help regarding handlebars on my '10 SG. Please let me first apologize as I'm sure this has been a hot topic for a few years now, however, I have searched repeatedly for this particular question and can't seem to find an absolute answer. If someone has a thread to view, please let me know.

My question is do I absolutely NEED to have extended cables if I go to a 12 inch mini-ape on my '10 Street Glide??? I have read so many threads and responses on this subject and it's enough to make your head spin. I have seen post after post about guys getting the Yaffe Monkey bars or Wild One Chubby's or Burley bars stating they retained their stock cables (clutch, brake, throttle/idle, etc.) and had no issues with stretching or going lock to lock left and right. However, I'm actually interested in the Harley Batwing Mini-Ape p#57485-11 because of the measurements such as pull back and true ride height. It would be nice if it were a 1.25" bar, but whatever. That's why I started to check out the other manufacturers. I'm open to any suggestions on manufacturer if I could get a clear cut answer.

Can anyone with experience tell me yes I definitely need extended cables or no I do not need extended cables if I go to a 12" bar please? Again, I am going to a 12" bar, nothing bigger. I know there has to be a sponsor or someone out there who has actually installed a set of 12" bars on a Street Glide before who has this information and I can't tell you how much I would appreciate the help.

Also, and again I'm positive this has been discussed before but for some reason, I'm having difficulty searching the forum for the exact answer, but what are some "less expensive" 1.25" diameter 12" high bars in black for the Street Glide? I heard Santee makes a damn fine bar, but seems like J&P or Dennis Kirk are the only ones carrying those two brands. I guess in a nutshell, I want some bagger apes but do NOT want to spend $1,000 to have them.

Thoughts and suggestions please?
 
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 10:21 PM
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With 12s you should at least change the clutch cable.
I don't understand why people don't want to change cables to get comfort.
Do it yourself, changing the clutch cable isn't too big of a job.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 10:33 PM
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hullhorr
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I have a road glide not a street glide so I am not sure of the difference, but I did 10" Wild One Chubbys and did not have to extend anything, but ended up extending my wires anyway. The problem I ran into was all of the wire connectors ended up being right behind the headlights and made reinstalling the outer fairing difficult. I extended the wires and got all the connectors in their original location which made it much better. I did keep the original clutch and brake lines though.

The other thing to consider is the width of the bars over stock. Mine were 4" wider than stock which extends things even further. They make kits for extending the wires that are real easy.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 09:01 AM
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You can re route the clutch and brake to make the stock lines work with the 12" mini apes , I did this for a temporary fix. I ended up going with +6 cables so I could route everything back stock.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 05:48 PM
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I appreciate the info guys!!! It sounds like a maybe that the possibility exists.

I'm not afraid of the work as much as I'm afraid of the cost. I began thinking this MIGHT be a $500 job total which would be achievable on my military stipend and a few extra dollars from my regular paycheck, but when I went to the dealer, it ends up being over $1,000. Simply put, I'll deal with the stock bars pushed up as far as I can get them before I drop a grand. I do certainly want to be comfortable, but comfort to me is also keeping some money in the bank.

I've been reading a bunch of posts stating that most guys were able to keep the stock cables up to (read: UP TO) 12 inch bagger apes. If that is achievable, I could handle the cost and pain of installing the $150 bars. The dealership gives me a military discount so I get 20% off, but it still comes up as a $1,000 job if I have them do it or an $750-800 job if I do it. The dealer is quoting a four (4) hour minimum for internally wired bars. I guess its because of routing the wires inside the bar and soldering the TBW extension. And I even understand the extension. The dealer also claims places like Yaffee and Wild Ones, etc are full of **** when the say that you do not have to change cables. We all know how Harley works, sell sell sell to make the biggest profit possible, which dig it, that's the American way. But the flip side to that is they are probably making this American pay more than is actually needed. Yup, I said it freely!!!

I guess all in all, I'm still hoping to find the answer that I'm looking for. The one that says it is definitely possible to retain stock cables to save money. I'm cheap and probably thinking more about finances than comfort for the long haul. But even the 6.99% interest rate sucks.

How about all the guys that put 12's on their bikes? Anyone out there that completed this project with stock cables and have some time and/or miles on the sleds with no issues? Or others that tried to use the stock cables but ran into difficulties? Any vendors who want to put their two cents in ? Again, any and all help is greatly appreciated!!!
 
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 05:52 PM
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BTW BillO3E, that's a tight looking anniversary!!!
 
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 05:58 PM
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Crimson13, can you go a little further in detail please? If I'm reading you right, I could keep the stock cables, but deal with the PITA of having to route the cables differently than stock? I'm down with that brother, everything in life has been a struggle so far in one way or another LOL.

I just don't want to go to lock in a parking lot and snap a cable or pull wires out of the stinking TBW.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by acd118
BTW BillO3E, that's a tight looking anniversary!!!
Thank You.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 06:04 PM
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The fastest way to get into trouble and to really mess up your bike is trying to go cheap as the number 1 priority
Screw up your TBW and you may have some major head aches. and cost..
 
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 06:13 PM
  #10  
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I went with Wild 1 but used the beach bar so I can't help ya answer your question but here is a recommendation for ya.


If you plan on using Wild 1 ... call them up ... tell them what bike you have and they will tell ya exactly what will require changing ... then order the bars from Phat Performance ... you will save 50-60 bucks off the price plus get free shipping. Don't tell them the last part - hehehe


Timm


 
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