well not the mini apes but the batwing reduced reach handlebars. I'm looking over what would be needed to do the job. Obviously a longer clutch cable is needed. Why do the say an upper and lower front brake line? I would assume the upper line is where they would add the length. Also it says if the switch wires are wanted to be ran inside the bars a new throttle switch is needed. Is something different about the new switch? I know it should be obvious that it would go this way that a $154 set of bars would cost me $400 lol.

 

I did 10'' bars on my electra glide and 12's on my road glide and did not have to change anything just some rerouting on the clutch cable I do believe.

 

Go with 10" or 12" apes and your be much happier. I went the route your looking to go to and within one year between the wrist angle and the low height, I removed them and went with 12" Twin Peek bars.....100% better as far as I'm concerned......

 

How would you say the wrist angle on the Twin Peaks compares with the stock bars?

 

I put 10 " bagger apes on mine final cost was $1500. I did chrome cables +6, mirriors, grips, new clutch and brake leavers. I put poly bushing in the triple trees for less vibration. then there was all the gaskets and o rings I replaced while doing the job.


if you don't have one already go get a manual.

 

Also, I wouldn't recommend re-routing the clutch cable as (1) it still binds and causes slipping & (2) looks horrendous. Do yourself a favor and get the +4" clutch cable. For my 10"LA Choppers bar swap I bought:

1. SE TBW assy (PN 32310-08, $104.95)
2. Pull chain (Lowe's, $5)
3. LA Chopper's clutch cable (PN LA-8010C08B, $62.99)
4. Spray lube (Lowe's, $3)
5. LA Chopper PrimeApe Bars ($250 fm HandleBarLouie (forum member))

From there it was all dis-assy, planning, wiring, re-assy & run...good luck!

 

I took a look at the twin peaks 10" bars. They do look nice and if I do it I will probably go that route. Still wondering why the twist sensor needs replaced?

 

The twist sensor really doesn't have to be replaced. The reason a lot folks replace it with the SE version is there's a small green plug that is attached to the stock wire harness of the twist sensor. I just cut the green plug out and solder the wires back together. Just be very careful not to get the wires mixed up as the wire colors do not coincide with the harness colors. I've done this on 3 different bikes without an issue. I'm good at soldering so if you are not or don't a buddy that is, the SE replacement is definitely the way to go.

 

Soldering isn't a problem. I figured the old sensor could be used. I'd like to not spend a fortune if I can help it

 

Absolutely I'm with ya there. When pulling the wires through, it's more about pushing than pulling. I used weed-eater string to pull my wires through without issue. I used the heavy string. I went with the Vindikta SG bars on my bike, which have the "points" at the top. It's a little tricky getting the wires around the points but for me, using the heavy gauge weed-eater string helped the wires to round over the points more easily.

Good luck and let us see em when they're done!