Primary fluid change
The torx are T-27, NOT T-25.
If you have the right bit, and are careful, push in hard as you turn to avoid slippage, you should have no problem.
Newer bikes don't need anti-seize, the older ones were ferrous fasteners threaded into aluminum, and did.
If you have the right bit, and are careful, push in hard as you turn to avoid slippage, you should have no problem.
Newer bikes don't need anti-seize, the older ones were ferrous fasteners threaded into aluminum, and did.
Novice
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: North East OK.
I use a brick under the jiffy stand to get the bike -almost- upright.
It still leans a few degrees to the left, enough to get the job done.
Additional thoughts:
- DO NOT take out the drain bolt UNTIL you have "broken" EVERY ONE of the 5 bolts that hold the derby cover on. You want to know they will come out before you drain the oil. Otherwise you could end up with an empty primary and no way to get the oil back in!
- I would suggest that you take one of the derby cover bolts to a good hardware store (or Home Depot or Lowe's) and replace them with allen-head bolts. I like the button head ones. Better than TORX, and I'm not the only one who thinks this way.
- Do not, repeat, DO NOT use a torque wrench on ANY of these bolts! Don't even use a full-sized 5/8" wrench on the drain bolt when you put it back in. Instead, use a 1/4" allen head in the little hole on the bolt. Get it "nice and tight" with your hand. Re-check it the next day, just for good measure.
- I just measure out 38 ounces of oil and pour it in. I use a small file card to guide the oil in. Refilling the primary is a slow process, if I try to pour it too quickly it will spill on the floor. Patience is required, just sit there and grin.
- Do not use Loctite on ANY of these bolts, either. See next paragraph.
- Get some Permatex anti-seize and put it on the derby cover bolts before you put them back in. Again, use a small wrench to snug them up. You don't want to strip these. Check 'em again a day or two later.
It still leans a few degrees to the left, enough to get the job done.
Additional thoughts:
- DO NOT take out the drain bolt UNTIL you have "broken" EVERY ONE of the 5 bolts that hold the derby cover on. You want to know they will come out before you drain the oil. Otherwise you could end up with an empty primary and no way to get the oil back in!
- I would suggest that you take one of the derby cover bolts to a good hardware store (or Home Depot or Lowe's) and replace them with allen-head bolts. I like the button head ones. Better than TORX, and I'm not the only one who thinks this way.
- Do not, repeat, DO NOT use a torque wrench on ANY of these bolts! Don't even use a full-sized 5/8" wrench on the drain bolt when you put it back in. Instead, use a 1/4" allen head in the little hole on the bolt. Get it "nice and tight" with your hand. Re-check it the next day, just for good measure.
- I just measure out 38 ounces of oil and pour it in. I use a small file card to guide the oil in. Refilling the primary is a slow process, if I try to pour it too quickly it will spill on the floor. Patience is required, just sit there and grin.
- Do not use Loctite on ANY of these bolts, either. See next paragraph.
- Get some Permatex anti-seize and put it on the derby cover bolts before you put them back in. Again, use a small wrench to snug them up. You don't want to strip these. Check 'em again a day or two later.
Just my .02
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,937
Likes: 320
From: Vancouver, WA
That's only if it was filled correctly to begin with. The clutch feel and primary noise is directly associated with that fluid level. Either fill exactly to the specified level by sight or let it completely drain out (get it good and hot first) and add a measured 38 oz of fluid.
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 7,675
Likes: 8,401
From: Utah
I prefer torx over the Allen head. If using the correct size bit, it should not strip out. Also,I believe the advice not to torque your screws is bad advice. Screws & bolts are engineered to be torqued to a specific spec. If you go by the HD Service Manual specs,& use a quality torque wrench(preferably certified).I believe,by experience,you won't have any problems. Also, if initially torqued correctly, there is no reason for a re torque unless specified by the manual.
Just my .02
Just my .02
Follow the manual.
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Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 7,675
Likes: 8,401
From: Utah
Not sure I follow you here, my case is Aluminum and my bolts are steel but i'm still not going to use anti-seize.