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I use one because I am a part time week end Mr Goodwrench. That and some of the soft alloys scare me. I once stripped out the threads that hold the A/C hardware on. I've been told that an experienced mechanic can feel the torque surprisingly well without a torque wrench. True or false?
See no reason not to torque stuff if you have a wrench handy. Otherwise I would find myself over tightening nuts/bolts all the time. It's good practice.
Just about on everything. Lot of guys say no to primary and other covers, but I've sure seen many posts about "how do I remove/fix a broken/stripped primary cover screw" from guys that skipped the torque wrench; I always use a torque wrench on them, and use the tightening sequence. I also use a 1/4 drive torque wrench on the little stuff, more accurate on the low end. In the aviation industry, we often ran across instructions not to use the bottom 10% of any kind of gage. I have enough torque wrenches in different sizes to usually avoid the bottom 25%. You can figure out how many foot lbs to use when inch lbs are given, but if you try using a 200 ft. lb torque wrench on a 20 in lb screw, you'll probably break or strip it; that low in it's range it's not much better than a wild *** guess. But I've known folks that tried...
I use one because I am a part time week end Mr Goodwrench. That and some of the soft alloys scare me. I once stripped out the threads that hold the A/C hardware on. I've been told that an experienced mechanic can feel the torque surprisingly well without a torque wrench. True or false?
Sort of true. You get a feel for metal stretching, but it's not always reliable. Different metals, corrosion, oil on threads, lot of variables that can trip you up. Even torque wrenches are a bit of a guess on some applications. Years ago, I read about Cadillac aluminum engines having problems they traced to incorrectly torqued heads. They fixed it by replacing torque wrenches with some kind of tool that actually measured the stretch on the bolts.
When I'm putting screws in those soft alloys, I like to use a small 1/4 in lb torque wrench, set to the low side of the recommended torque range, and a small drop of blue loctite. Have never stripped one doing it that way, never had treads get messed up from over torquing - that's often what happened when you have a screw that's stiff to turn all the way out.
just about on everything. Lot of guys say no to primary and other covers, but i've sure seen many posts about "how do i remove/fix a broken/stripped primary cover screw" from guys that skipped the torque wrench; i always use a torque wrench on them, and use the tightening sequence. I also use a 1/4 drive torque wrench on the little stuff, more accurate on the low end. In the aviation industry, we often ran across instructions not to use the bottom 10% of any kind of gage. I have enough torque wrenches in different sizes to usually avoid the bottom 25%. You can figure out how many foot lbs to use when inch lbs are given, but if you try using a 200 ft. Lb torque wrench on a 20 in lb screw, you'll probably break or strip it; that low in it's range it's not much better than a wild *** guess. But i've known folks that tried...
Never used one much working on my own cars or trucks unless I was in the engine. I use torque wrenches for almost everything on my Harley. It's much more important to get things right on a motorcycle and too many things that you can either strip out or not get snug enough.
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