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Ignition switch alignment tool

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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 09:16 AM
  #11  
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Sounds like good advice lp. It turns out that the 05 switch and the 09 in the video don't remove in the same manner. Instead of removing it from the full lock position, the 05 requires you to put the switch in the accessory position and use a small screwdriver to reach the button.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 09:17 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by just plain john
I have an 05, and it appears to be different than in the video. With it rotated far left past fork lock the corner of the switch where the release button should be does not clear the fairing and I can't get my finger under it. When viewed from the side I don't see the button either. I'll have to get my manual out.
Put key in and turn a little past lock to press button.
Ooops, glad ya got it lol.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 12:56 PM
  #13  
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my 05 removed from the acc. position ,, I got it miss aligned in the process of doing my repairs and just used a long screwdriver to re align it and it worked for me

mike
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 01:00 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by jmn1960
my 05 removed from the acc. position ,, I got it miss aligned in the process of doing my repairs and just used a long screwdriver to re align it and it worked for me

mike
Yeah, that's what my manual says too. Did you disconnect the battery ground before you removed the switch?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 01:07 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by just plain john
Yeah, that's what my manual says too. Did you disconnect the battery ground before you removed the switch?
don't remember ,, but I don't think so as I was just changing the ing. switch cuz I broke the top of it off (don't ask)

mike
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 01:56 PM
  #16  
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I'll echo what LP said in Reply #10. I've had my 2007 FLHX's ignition switch **** out probably 20x and never used an alignment tool. It can be removed in any position (off, acc, etc.) but must be reinserted in the same position. Forks can be moved around freely but I would avoid getting it too close to the fork-lock position (full left), as that may cause problems (never tested it but have heard warnings). BTW, a small screwdriver isn't necessary to flip the button under the **** if you have small fingers, as I always just used my pinkie.

I did get mine out of whack once when not paying attention and forgetting to install all the plastic and metal spacers first, then turning the ****. Once the tumblers were out of alignment a large-blade screwdriver got them back in place rather easily.
 

Last edited by iclick; Oct 1, 2015 at 02:03 PM.
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 03:08 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by just plain john
I'm wanting to pull my ignition switch and accessory switch panel. For those of you that built the alignment tool, what size copper tubing did you get? 1/4", 5/16", or what?
Flat Blade Screwdriver works perfectly fine if you accidentally get the internal parts misaligned. However, if you remove the I.S. correctly, and not turn the forks or anything, you shouldn't need a tool at all....just a tiny screwdriver to press in the lock on the underside. Good Luck.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 03:46 PM
  #18  
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Don't need a special tool. You can line it all up with a screw driver if need be.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 05:19 PM
  #19  
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I made mine, I felt the copper was too soft and flimsy. Bought some aluminum stock at Lowes, took measurements of the ignition switch and went to work.






 

Last edited by Dr. Tiki; Oct 2, 2015 at 05:21 PM.
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 05:28 PM
  #20  
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I used 5/16 brake line and it worked.
 
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