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Well it doesn't just come down to this. Yes removing the rocker covers isn't that big of a deal but what is more of an annoyance is removing the fuel tank, console, and associated hoses and wiring and those obviously must come off before getting the rockers out.
I can take my 2011 Road King tank off in less than 2 minutes. That includes removing the seat to get to the bolts. No need to remove the console.
Perfect are OEM fixed length unless you need adjustable. If you cam base circle is the same, all you need since the lifter has more then the range to cover it. Lighter and they sure can't come loose.
Ok so I have a question for everyone. Iv seen all the video on adjusting the adjustable push rods. I know you have to adjust them on the base circle and wait for the lifter to bleed down. before turning the engine over to start on the other cylinder.
Now, I am assuming that the cam needs to be on the base circle before I put the perfect fit pushrods and torque down the rocker assembly. If I do this with brand new woods lifters, will I also need to wait for them to bleed down? I have read through my Harley service manual, briefly but didn't really recall anything other than torqueing the bolts down incremently in the proper sequence.
Yes, you need to allow bleed down. Curious, what max depth are your pushrods going to be in the lifters?
Well, good question. Im purchasing from Fuel Moto. When selecting cam options it gives you a selection to choose from adjustable pushrods or perfect fit. It gives no details on the perfect fit pushrods. Ive searched their web site and cant find any info. It would be good to know.
If your looking at the perfect fit, my question would be what is the advantage over using them instead of just keeping the oem push rods? If there's nothing wrong with the original, what makes the perfect fit worth the extra money?
Keep in mind that I know nothing about pushrods. I can see the advantage of ease of installation in the adjustable, but I'm just curious why you would consider replacing solid pushrods with solid pushrods?
For what it's worth, the very reputable indy I go to has always reused the oem's when replacing cams in my bikes.
Good luck with the upgrades and enjoy the new power!
Weight on the back side of the rockers arms isn't a deal breaker with a pushrod engine, especially in the rpm range these engines operate.
I'm not saying that it isn't important, just not a big deal in the HD V-twins.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with fixed length stock type pushrods either. There is enough travel in the plungers on the stock type hydraulic roller lifters to compensate for minor variances in the parts used. I still like and use adjustable pushrods for the shear convenience of not having to take off everything above them for cam changes or lifter replacements, etc.......Cliff
If your looking at the perfect fit, my question would be what is the advantage over using them instead of just keeping the oem push rods? If there's nothing wrong with the original, what makes the perfect fit worth the extra money?
Keep in mind that I know nothing about pushrods. I can see the advantage of ease of installation in the adjustable, but I'm just curious why you would consider replacing solid pushrods with solid pushrods?
For what it's worth, the very reputable indy I go to has always reused the oem's when replacing cams in my bikes.
Good luck with the upgrades and enjoy the new power!
I have read several posts here that Jamie at Fuel Moto says the tw-222 and other woods cams have a smaller base circle than the stock cams and stock push rods are too short.
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