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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 12:09 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by greggmig
Long story short I went back to a set of new rear mounts that Ron at Truetrack recommended after purchasing a complete stabilizer and bushing kit from him.
That's the way to go!
 
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 10:03 AM
  #22  
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True track makes quality stuff I even purchased the reamer kit and sleeve bushings for the transmission where the swing-arm shaft goes through, what an awesome precious setup it took every last bit of play out of my rear swing arm assembly. I highly recommend it.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 01:04 PM
  #23  
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Thank you all for your input!

I just pulled the trigger on Progressive 444s, Progressive Monotubes, EBC full-floating rotors and EBC HH pads up front.

Based on feedback here, I gave very serious consideration to Ohlins, but chose Progressive because of the better price point and the satisfaction I had with a set of 440s on my Wide Glide.

While I've got the front end apart, I'll be replacing all bushings, bearings etc up there as well, and making adjustments per your suggestions.

I haven't decided on a stabilization approach yet, but thanks to the great feedback I got here from so many knowledgeable people, I'll be making upgrades at the rear of this machine next, once I've noodled through all the options, after I've taken care of the front end.

I'll post my impressions once I've completed the install, probably a month+ from now.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 05:42 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Z
Thank you all for your input!

I just pulled the trigger on Progressive 444s, Progressive Monotubes, EBC full-floating rotors and EBC HH pads up front.

Based on feedback here, I gave very serious consideration to Ohlins, but chose Progressive because of the better price point and the satisfaction I had with a set of 440s on my Wide Glide.

While I've got the front end apart, I'll be replacing all bushings, bearings etc up there as well, and making adjustments per your suggestions.

I haven't decided on a stabilization approach yet, but thanks to the great feedback I got here from so many knowledgeable people, I'll be making upgrades at the rear of this machine next, once I've noodled through all the options, after I've taken care of the front end.

I'll post my impressions once I've completed the install, probably a month+ from now.
I don't get it.... What was wrong with the spongy front end that dove like a dolphin or the OEM air shocks that made you fly off the seat or made the *** end wander like a drunk teenager?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 06:19 PM
  #25  
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I Sometimes wonder why Harley invested so much into the 09+ frame and the 14+ front end while leaving the same basic suspension since the 80's.

Once you install a good set of shocks and front end suspension kit you realize your bikes potential.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 09:21 PM
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This thread got me looking at true tracks bronze bushings for the 99 swing arm. There price seams high, wouldn't mind paying $300 if it had the outside frame mounts too. If I could just get some specs for it I'm sure I could make them alot cheaper. I might just try to figuire it out, I just don't see what holds these things side ways. Probly why they need the stabilizer which I'm thinking of getting.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2015 | 06:42 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by xcbullet
I might just try to figuire it out, I just don't see what holds these things side ways. Probly why they need the stabilizer which I'm thinking of getting.
You hit the nail on the head! Nothing holds these things from moving sideways, except the clearances required for the rear rubber bushings to function. The original patent shows a rear stabilizer and all Buells plus the rubber mount Sportsters have them from new. Read the link I gave in post #12 for more info.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2015 | 07:56 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by xcbullet
... I just don't see what holds these things side ways.
The swingarm shaft is mounted to the frame via bushings. That's what holds it in place. Don't know the history of Harley and their bushings, but at least on my 04, the bushing is stacked steel discs and has hardly any deflection under load. It is oem manufactured as a cocked stack. That is not wear, it is oem design. One can change the alignment of the swingarm shaft in the frame via rotation of these cocked bushings, but not easily. There are positional detents that set the bushing in one position and would have to be modified to facilitate rotational adjustment.

The swingarm is mounted to the swingarm shaft via bushings and bearings of various combinations over the years. I can say that on my 04, the bearings were tight and tight in the swingarm and the bushings tight into the bearings. Grossly excessive clearance existed between the bushings and the swingarm shaft though. The old parts were not worn, the new replacement parts had almost exactly the same excessive clearance (~0.020", with a 0.001" difference between the old and new parts, as I recall).

This gross clearance between the swingarm shaft and swingarm bushings allowed the swing arm to move side to side upwards of 1/4" at the wheel. This play is completely masked by belt tension. You can only detect it when the belt is slackened.

I know the factory oem manual shows the motor adjustment turnbuckles aligning the rear wheel. I do not know why and I am reasonably sure this is wrong. Here is why I say that.

The clearance of the bore hole in the rear of the transmission case is substantially larger than the shaft. As such, the transmission/engine assembly can be cocked in relation to that shaft and the swingarm mounted tightly on that shaft. This allows for sprocket alignment via those engine/transmission adjustment turnbuckles. That, I believe, is what they are actually for. Having watched bikes being built at the factory, that appeared to be what they were using those turnbuckles for, alignment of the sprockets.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2015 | 08:31 AM
  #29  
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Thanks for that explanation. So what your saying then once the bike is aligned per manual then when I checked my bushings on swing arm I just changed alignment.

This is what I'm thinking to do.
New bushings aftermarket or make.
New oem rubber on outside.
Link, leaning towards the progressive do to my dog bone being bent. Pry bar taking to it to get oil pan out.
Then doing alignment per glide pro Utube vidio.

Also front tire & heaver fork oil.
Maybe handle bar bushings, but I kinda like that soft to not feel vibes.
 

Last edited by xcbullet; Dec 11, 2015 at 08:39 AM.
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Old Dec 11, 2015 | 09:44 AM
  #30  
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Go with the Truetrack Trackula kit its worth every penny very high quality and precise you wont regret it. You get what you pay for. Call Ron he will hook you up with exactly what you need.
 
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