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2003 FLHTCUI, cruise worked fine, then the cruise switch light flickered, went out, doesn't work now. The listed test procedures don't do anything, no lights. Would a bad dash switch cause this? I see there are 3 wires, so it's not a simple toggle, and while I do have the electrical book, I am a little confused about how this switch works. I'd like to bypass the switch to see if it is the switch. I've checked the roll off switch, fuse, and cruise module connector.
Oh, have not checked the handlebar switch, but all other controls do and have worked fine.
Last edited by DigitalDave; Dec 3, 2015 at 08:41 PM.
2003 FLHTCUI, cruise worked fine, then the cruise switch light flickered, went out, doesn't work now. The listed test procedures don't do anything, no lights. Would a bad dash switch cause this? I see there are 3 wires, so it's not a simple toggle, and while I do have the electrical book, I am a little confused about how this switch works. I'd like to bypass the switch to see if it is the switch. I've checked the roll off switch, fuse, and cruise module connector.
Oh, have not checked the handlebar switch, but all other controls do and have worked fine.
Get a test light and make sure you have power to the switch when in the off position with the key on. (Test the test light on a battery before you start) Power good, flip the switch and test for power to the accessory. Yes, the switch could have gone bad. They all have 3 connectors. This might illustrate the process better. http://www.learningaboutelectronics....tch-wiring.php
Hey Bullitt, just give him the switch. What goes around comes around!
Well, didn't want to get confused... Under the Batwing() is a connector that the diagram shows as the cruise connection. A triangular 3 wire connector. I unplugged it, turned on the key, checked for voltage on the female side, none, activated the switch, still none. On the male side, key on, switch off, no voltage; switch on, voltage (12vdc) between 2 of the terminals. My tiny brain says if that connector goes to the cruise switch, the switch is disconnected and it would have no voltage. That would be why I'm here, dazed and confused Tracking the connection thru the diagrams, well, pretty confusing. Would be nice to have a schematic of just the cruise wiring but I don't seem to find one.
If you pop of the ignition switch and remove the cruise switch panel you can test the switch from the bottom of the switch. The wires are soldered to the bottom of the switch.
My goodness that would be way too easy... I'll be doing that first thing in the morning. Don't know what I'd do without these forums. Thanks sn95. Nothing better than a video I'll update tomorrow.
Yes, that was easy peasy. Got the switches out and on the bench. The acc, cruise and spot switches look the same, and if they are, the cruise switch is bad. The spot and acc switches behave identically to ech other, but the cruise switch does not have the same behavior as the other. One terminal never has continuity to the others... So, bad switch. Sending pm to sn95
Can someone shed some light on this. The acc, spot and cruise switches all look the same. Why does HD sell the cruise switch for $75, the acc for $30 and the spot for $32? Is there something in that cruise switch? Or is it just a moco thing?
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