Cam tensioner
#1
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Central Pennsylvania, USA
Posts: 148
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Cam tensioner
Ok, recently bought a 2002 Road King with 74,000 miles, and after reading about the cam tensioners, decided to pop the cam cover and take a look.
Not good, but not catastrophic yet. The outer pad is worn at least 1/2 way through, and I didn't get a look at the inner yet. Time to do something now before it causes problems down the road.
Bike runs well so far, and I'll probably keep it a while. It has good power, and so far I'm not wanting more...just reliability. I'm thinking of installing the 25284-11 Screaming Eagle kit with the hydraulic tensioners, and high volume oil pump.
Is this a "do it yourself in the garage kit", or are there enough special tools needed that its better done by a cycle shop?
How much do shops typically charge to install the kit?
Not good, but not catastrophic yet. The outer pad is worn at least 1/2 way through, and I didn't get a look at the inner yet. Time to do something now before it causes problems down the road.
Bike runs well so far, and I'll probably keep it a while. It has good power, and so far I'm not wanting more...just reliability. I'm thinking of installing the 25284-11 Screaming Eagle kit with the hydraulic tensioners, and high volume oil pump.
Is this a "do it yourself in the garage kit", or are there enough special tools needed that its better done by a cycle shop?
How much do shops typically charge to install the kit?
#2
How many miles do you plan on putting on your RK? Is it EFI or Carb? Do you think it will be more than 25K. If its not EFI then you are short money away from a simple cam upgrade, inner bearings, lifters, shoes and gaskets. Must friends cams shoes look great at 20K and focused on a lot of bad chrome instead.
#3
Typically the inner is the first to wear out, as i have seen on both my bikes.
I upgraded to the SE Hyd kit and oil pump, i also upgraded the cheap inner cam bearing with S&S ones, because on my Dyna the inner front took out my motor.
While i was in there i installed a bolt in cam for a little more riding fun.
There is a special tool to do the cam bearings and a press is need to install the cams into the cam plate if i recall, the rest of the job is not that bad
I upgraded to the SE Hyd kit and oil pump, i also upgraded the cheap inner cam bearing with S&S ones, because on my Dyna the inner front took out my motor.
While i was in there i installed a bolt in cam for a little more riding fun.
There is a special tool to do the cam bearings and a press is need to install the cams into the cam plate if i recall, the rest of the job is not that bad
#5
#7
I'd put the money into cams and lifters instead of the hydraulic shoes. You can always go into the cam chest every two or three years and replace. Just my opinion or 2 cents as they say.
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#8
I agree, being a wrench, I just did new tensioners, upgraded the pump and replced the inners (I have all the tools). If I have to go back in every 30k or so, I like it, gives me a chance to see if all else looks good.
#9
Head on over to the Engine Mechanical section and read away,dozens of threads on cam chest upgrades.The resident engine builders in most cases recommend new Cyco shoes,new
inner bearings and lifters,and a camshaft change,no real need for the new style plate or gear drive on an otherwise stock engine.
inner bearings and lifters,and a camshaft change,no real need for the new style plate or gear drive on an otherwise stock engine.
#10
Here is my 2 cents, I don't think the stock tensioners are the problem at all. I think the big problem is the chains, and if you just do the SE kit, it still uses the stock inner chain with a roller outer chain.
I spent a good amount of money on fixing this very thing.
What I did is use an S&S cam plate , and pump, with conversion cams that have the outer size to fit a cam plate that is the same size as an 07 and up cam plate, and the inner size to fit the bearings in an 88" based engine, and it will use the 07 and up roller chains, with hydro tensioners.
The way I went was on the expensive side , but I will not have to open the cam chest for a LONG time.
The roller chains will wear the tensioners until it hits the roller, and then pretty much stop wearing.
I spent a good amount of money on fixing this very thing.
What I did is use an S&S cam plate , and pump, with conversion cams that have the outer size to fit a cam plate that is the same size as an 07 and up cam plate, and the inner size to fit the bearings in an 88" based engine, and it will use the 07 and up roller chains, with hydro tensioners.
The way I went was on the expensive side , but I will not have to open the cam chest for a LONG time.
The roller chains will wear the tensioners until it hits the roller, and then pretty much stop wearing.