My 2010 Street Glide has been having issues of late. The check engine light and battery light will both come on and I notice the volts going down on the gauge. Then a minute or two later lights come back on and the voltage goes back up. It has been doing this for a while sometimes every day, one time it went months with out doing it. Well today i think it kicked the bucket. Lights came on and never went off and battery went dead. I jumped the battery to get home and light stayed on and voltage is around 8 and every once in a while it jumped to 12.

The battery is new so does this sound like a Voltage regulator, or more of a stator issue?

Thanks for any help. I can replace the VR on my own, but wouldnt have a clue on the stator!

 

http://blog.jpcycles.com/step-by-ste...arging-system/

 

Sounds like stator, but do the checks above.

 

Thanks that is way above my pay grade, but I appreciate the post.

 

Your symptoms match the symptoms I had when my regulator went out. I tried the regulator from Cycle Electric and it has been 4 or 5 years with no problems. It is supposed to handle the surplus electricity differently from the way the factory unit does and go easier on the stator. I can not vouch for the accuracy of the claim but it has been trouble free and competitively priced.

 

sounds like regulator to me - had the same problems until mine was replaced under warrantee.


the service manager said if the stator was bad it would stink to high heaven when you removed the derby cover...

 

Your symptoms exactly match what I saw when my regulator went out...two times.

It will come and go like that before it goes completely, as you experienced. Change it, it is toast. HD regulators seem to be junk.

Good news, it is a pretty easy fix.

 

Do the simple checks first. Cables ect... Then I would check the stator output..


Testing:

Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.


Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5

If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.

Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.

One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.

Voltage Regulator Testing

Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.

 

I just wanted to give everyone a quick update. I went and bought a multimeter from harbor freight and I did the testing as mentioned. I wasn't sure if I did it right but everything kind of leaned towards the voltage regulator. I ordered a new one from J and P and changed it out and it works perfectly!


Thanks for all of the help!!!!

 

Regulator, had same symptoms, changed It out, all good after that.