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While my whip is hot... on occasion (thereafter) with the engine in neutral and or 1st with the clutch lever pulled in... the engine rpms will rise to 1200 and back down.
I'm thinking it may be the engine temp sensor showing signs of being fubar.
but... my question is... has anyone pulled the sensor (PN 32446-99 Sensor, Engine Temp 99-15 OEM #6 in the photo) and maybe sanded the end... presto chango... and all is well in the world?
am I on the right track or should I just cough up the $30.00 plus $7.95 from boardtracker?
I replaced every sensor on my bike over the last year just cause, and it made a nice difference. didnt skimp on old part deals either. thats my 2 cents worth
My sensor went bad and did what you describe. Mine also died at a light and gave me a fit getting it started again. If it goes completely it will make the bike not start at all.
Mine was replaced under my extended warranty but for $40 you should just change it.
Read your codes, if it is bad it will show up there. The service writer told me he replaces a lot of them.
Do you have a oil cooler ? If not that maybe the problem.I just went from 96 to 103 and my bike is getting hot, in 75 degree weather.I know I need a oil cooler here in Northern California. In the summer it get well over a 100 degrees.
Sanding it won't do anything; you just have to change it out.
It will only throw codes if it goes totally out of range (open/closed), but until that time they usually act like you're describing. Starts creeping up or down.
And Yes, when they go totally open, the bike won't run at all.
While my whip is hot... on occasion (thereafter) with the engine in neutral and or 1st with the clutch lever pulled in... the engine rpms will rise to 1200 and back down.
I'm thinking it may be the engine temp sensor showing signs of being fubar.
but... my question is... has anyone pulled the sensor (PN 32446-99 Sensor, Engine Temp 99-15 OEM #6 in the photo) and maybe sanded the end... presto chango... and all is well in the world?
am I on the right track or should I just cough up the $30.00 plus $7.95 from boardtracker?
Intake leaks can also cause an erratic idle.You might want to check for that before buying a sensor.
Yes I do have an oil cooler and I feel you brother... another reason why I don't like the which tire is better/lasts longer threads. Reno heat... whew.
Originally Posted by voodoodrug
I replaced every sensor on my bike...
I wish I had just cause money. In general... that thought would lead me to a new bike in 2017... just cause. For the time being... looks like I will be checking for a leak at both intake ports and replacing just this one sensor
Originally Posted by bill from tn
My sensor went bad and did what you describe. Mine also died at a light and gave me a fit getting it started again. If it goes completely it will make the bike not start at all.
Mine was replaced under my extended warranty but for $40 you should just change it.
Read your codes, if it is bad it will show up there. The service writer told me he replaces a lot of them.
Hmmmm, can't be having this happen, but it damn sure is annoying for the rpms to increase slowly and cap off at 1200 without any input, then drop back down. All happening when I know my batch is good and hot under the skirt. There I am sitting on my whip thinking... what now. no codes.
Originally Posted by lp
Sanding it won't do anything; you just have to change it out.
It will only throw codes if it goes totally out of range (open/closed), but until that time they usually act like you're describing. Starts creeping up or down.
And Yes, when they go totally open, the bike won't run at all.
Good info Bill.
thanks for the slap of reality. I over think things and well... I can produce a foot of copper wire from 1 penny. I will order the part.
Originally Posted by geezer glide 56
Intake leaks can also cause an erratic idle.You might want to check for that before buying a sensor.
I've read of a few methods to check for intake leaks... carb spray, propane. you know... I have had the jugs off and to me... checking for leaks seems to be an art. For instance... I cant caulk ISH. Well, I can caulk something but it won't look good. then the next j/a comes along and makes it look so simple.
Some remove the horn and horn mount. Some are able to get to it with a flexible extension. Not hard, but you will need a deep well socket.
More displacement engines (103 up to 2017) don't really have the room for a deep well socket even with a universal angle connector. I used a box end offset 3/4" wrench. The newer design gets rid of this stupid configuration.
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2009 103 Engine Temperature Sensor failure
