DK Thunder Torque?
When I went catless, installed new slip-ons and cams, I had the bike tuned. Bike ran like the wind but was very loud. I have installed TTi's, which have lessened the dBs but the bike has lost the responsiveness that it had when I got if from my tuner. Luckily, I saved the map before I started messing with "fixing" the extra back pressure. It runs better, but still not the way it did before I put the TTI's in. I can either get it re-tuned or take the inserts out and install the map... time will tell.
I have a full setup from freedom performance (true duals... free flowing pipes from the exhaust flange out to the cans).
I also bought the inserts. I went with the recommended size (per the opening) and have found that the inserts are FAR TOO restrictive and wish I would have bought the smaller size.
What I have found is the bottom bolt which secures the baffle (regardless the baffle they sell) is not at the same ID as the exit opening. Also... the bolt that is welded onto the insert is larger than the circumference of the bolt hole so it wasn't a simple insert. I did drill out one hole in my can... and found I had to shave down the actual portion of the insert that (essentially) narrows the ID.
I dunno. yes... do I feel a slight loss of low end torque... sure but personally... I'd have to buy the smaller DK insert and I kind of lost interest for now.
I also bought the inserts. I went with the recommended size (per the opening) and have found that the inserts are FAR TOO restrictive and wish I would have bought the smaller size.
What I have found is the bottom bolt which secures the baffle (regardless the baffle they sell) is not at the same ID as the exit opening. Also... the bolt that is welded onto the insert is larger than the circumference of the bolt hole so it wasn't a simple insert. I did drill out one hole in my can... and found I had to shave down the actual portion of the insert that (essentially) narrows the ID.
I dunno. yes... do I feel a slight loss of low end torque... sure but personally... I'd have to buy the smaller DK insert and I kind of lost interest for now.
jlasoftail,
I have the wavy 158 in my VH big shot duals on my Road King. They really increased the bottom end on my set up and toned down the racket of the big shots. I have them turned about 45 degrees at DK's recommendation and really like the sound and giddy up. For the money, they are pretty hard to beat I think. Certainly worth giving them a shot.
I have the wavy 158 in my VH big shot duals on my Road King. They really increased the bottom end on my set up and toned down the racket of the big shots. I have them turned about 45 degrees at DK's recommendation and really like the sound and giddy up. For the money, they are pretty hard to beat I think. Certainly worth giving them a shot.
He may drive over that bridge to get off that damned sandbar. It's fairly high and steep-ish.
jlasoftail,
I have the wavy 158 in my VH big shot duals on my Road King. They really increased the bottom end on my set up and toned down the racket of the big shots. I have them turned about 45 degrees at DK's recommendation and really like the sound and giddy up. For the money, they are pretty hard to beat I think. Certainly worth giving them a shot.
I have the wavy 158 in my VH big shot duals on my Road King. They really increased the bottom end on my set up and toned down the racket of the big shots. I have them turned about 45 degrees at DK's recommendation and really like the sound and giddy up. For the money, they are pretty hard to beat I think. Certainly worth giving them a shot.
The way to know which size is best is to look at this LINK.
It will require you measuring the diameter of the baffle that you are running.
For the poster that felt it was too restrictive, you can adjust the angle of your TTI's and it will be less restrictive and move the power around on the RPM band, and as stated, you may want to try a smaller one that what you are running.
Here is a chart that shows the difference in where the power is in the RPM band by simply rotating the angle of the TTI. This chart shows only two positions, but there is an infinite number of positions to try, until you get the power just right for how you like to ride.
Please note: The chart below is for a Sportster that produces power at a higher RPM than a Twin Cam. On a Twin Cam everything will be moved to the left.
It will require you measuring the diameter of the baffle that you are running.
For the poster that felt it was too restrictive, you can adjust the angle of your TTI's and it will be less restrictive and move the power around on the RPM band, and as stated, you may want to try a smaller one that what you are running.
Here is a chart that shows the difference in where the power is in the RPM band by simply rotating the angle of the TTI. This chart shows only two positions, but there is an infinite number of positions to try, until you get the power just right for how you like to ride.
Please note: The chart below is for a Sportster that produces power at a higher RPM than a Twin Cam. On a Twin Cam everything will be moved to the left.
Last edited by DK Custom; Apr 12, 2016 at 01:20 AM.
The way to know which size is best is to look at this LINK.
It will require you measuring the diameter of the baffle that you are running.
For the poster that felt it was too restrictive, you can adjust the angle of your TTI's and it will be less restrictive and move the power around on the RPM band, and as stated, you may want to try a smaller one that what you are running.
Here is a chart that shows the difference in where the power is in the RPM band by simply rotating the angle of the TTI. This chart shows only two positions, but there is an infinite number of positions to try, until you get the power just right for how you like to ride.
Please note: The chart below is for a Sportster that produces power at a higher RPM than a Twin Cam. On a Twin Cam everything will be moved to the left.

It will require you measuring the diameter of the baffle that you are running.
For the poster that felt it was too restrictive, you can adjust the angle of your TTI's and it will be less restrictive and move the power around on the RPM band, and as stated, you may want to try a smaller one that what you are running.
Here is a chart that shows the difference in where the power is in the RPM band by simply rotating the angle of the TTI. This chart shows only two positions, but there is an infinite number of positions to try, until you get the power just right for how you like to ride.
Please note: The chart below is for a Sportster that produces power at a higher RPM than a Twin Cam. On a Twin Cam everything will be moved to the left.

Email or call the shop (contact info below), they can help you out with less expensive shipping on the TTI's.
I have the 158 THunder torques on a 14 road king with a catless head pipe and fishtails with no baffles. They work very well and I have good low end power. The thing with exhaust is that it's a wave coming out that is affected by not only the size and length of a pipe, but also the shape on the head pipe. When you open them up that wave gets changed. The thunder torques restore that open end. Plus DK customs is a great company to deal with
I have the 258's in my 3 1/4" slip-ons.
I'm one of those guys who, unimpressed with the sound of stock Breakout mufflers, switched to slip-ons. A more marginal improvement would be difficult to imagine. Then I decided to whip out the baffles from the new units and insert TTI's. "That", was a good move.
TTI's make a big (positive) difference over baffle-less pipes. I've tried it out both ways and the TTI's definitely restore torque and power. On deciding to keep the TTI's I had my SEST tune redone with TTI's in place. As to sound, its a subjective thing, but the difference is also very noticeable IMHO. Without TTI's or baffles, you get a loud and brassy resonance. You know how you can tell when someone has simply yanked the baffles from a set of street pipes ? Like that !! With TTI's you also get loud though the sound is neither brassy nor resonant but more full sounding.
My TTI's obviously leave a 5/16" gap between the edge of each TTI and the pipe. That kind of clearance might be constricting in a small diameter opening (I'm guessing) but leaves plenty of cross sectional area for gas to escape from the 3 1/4" ends of my slip-ons. Anyhow,, no issues there.
Someone mentioned DIY lollipops. Bad idea! The old, eye bolt / through bolt / washers hack to save what ?? 15 bux ?!!? Hell, if you're that parsimonious, think of the Loctite you'll save by going with a part that actually looks like it belongs where it is.
Hope this helps.
I'm one of those guys who, unimpressed with the sound of stock Breakout mufflers, switched to slip-ons. A more marginal improvement would be difficult to imagine. Then I decided to whip out the baffles from the new units and insert TTI's. "That", was a good move.
TTI's make a big (positive) difference over baffle-less pipes. I've tried it out both ways and the TTI's definitely restore torque and power. On deciding to keep the TTI's I had my SEST tune redone with TTI's in place. As to sound, its a subjective thing, but the difference is also very noticeable IMHO. Without TTI's or baffles, you get a loud and brassy resonance. You know how you can tell when someone has simply yanked the baffles from a set of street pipes ? Like that !! With TTI's you also get loud though the sound is neither brassy nor resonant but more full sounding.
My TTI's obviously leave a 5/16" gap between the edge of each TTI and the pipe. That kind of clearance might be constricting in a small diameter opening (I'm guessing) but leaves plenty of cross sectional area for gas to escape from the 3 1/4" ends of my slip-ons. Anyhow,, no issues there.
Someone mentioned DIY lollipops. Bad idea! The old, eye bolt / through bolt / washers hack to save what ?? 15 bux ?!!? Hell, if you're that parsimonious, think of the Loctite you'll save by going with a part that actually looks like it belongs where it is.

Hope this helps.








